Hello,
Have the typical home Leaf Blower, an Echo Model PB 2100.
Trying to get it started easily.
The Manual isn't too clear on this:
To start, we Prime the bulb the 10 times it says, and have the Choke on Full.
But, are you also supposed to hold down the trigger while pulling ?
By trigger I mean what you squeeze to adjust the speed.
Thanks, Bob
Hello,
Have the typical home Leaf Blower, an Echo Model PB 2100.
Trying to get it started easily.
The Manual isn't too clear on this:
To start, we Prime the bulb the 10 times it says, and have the Choke on Full.
But, are you also supposed to hold down the trigger while pulling ?
By trigger I mean what you squeeze to adjust the speed.
Thanks, Bob
Hello,
Have the typical home Leaf Blower, an Echo Model PB 2100.
Trying to get it started easily.
The Manual isn't too clear on this:
To start, we Prime the bulb the 10 times it says, and have the Choke on Full. Fine.
But, are you also supposed to hold down the trigger while pulling ?
By trigger I mean what you squeeze to adjust the speed.
Thanks, Bob
Starting a 2 stroke is more art than science and you do what seems to work best for that particular 2 stroke. Opening the throttle is helpful if you flooded it, If for some strange reason the mix is just right it will start at idle, usually when it is warm. With most of them full choke is really too much gas and it will flood. If it runs a second and stops, turn off the choke, open the throttle and give it a yank or two. That is what seems to work best on the little 2 strokes I have. Play with the throttle to keep it running until it settles down and will idle OK.
The sears one here that I've been working on, the way I always started it was:
About 3 pushes of the bulb Full choke Pull until it fires Half choke Pull until it starts Once running for 15 secs choke off
That's if it's cold. Warm use no choke, if that doesn't work, then try half choke.
I have the large backpack model from Echo and the directions are just a wee bit different in that I prime it 10x and after one or two pulls (short, sharp pulls) on the cord, I move it to half choke whether it starts or not. If it starts (as it usually does) then I let it warm up a bit with the throttle at idle and the choke full OFF.
As previously stated, starting these up is more art (or witchcraft) than science and you need to be in tune with your particular machine. I will say this, however: Over the years I've owned a lot of different brands and Echo is hands down the best running, longest last equipment of its sort that I've found. Love it!
If your blower is catching but failing to keep running you may need to adjust the idle just a bit to help it keep running until it warms up.
Trader's advice is pretty much on the mark as well, but, as I said each of these machines is just a bit different in temperament.
A tip to take to the bank is to use the canned fuel from either Echo or any of the other purveyors of pre-mixed fuel. Most of it is 93 Octane with NO ALCOHOL. The last thing you want is alcohol in your 2cycle fuel (or any yard equipment fuel). I've switched and now run up 15 miles and buy 5 gallon cans of premium gasoline in Wisconsin to avoid the alcohol.
replying to Bob, Iggy wrote: Mine's a Stihl and it works the same as any other blower. Don't prime it at all, set it to Choke, fully depress the throttle and pull until it runs for a second...anymore than 5-pulls means your carb needs either a cleaning or a new diaphragm.
Then, set it to Run, fully depress the throttle and pull until it runs...shouldn't be anymore than 3-pulls and you can either release the throttle to let it warm-up by idling or you can feather/rev it.
So yes, ALWAYS hold the trigger all of the way down (in your case) when starting and only until started. This, lets the carb do its pumping job and prime the fuel-line and combustion chamber. There's no need to waste the time pumping the primer bulb and wearing it out. Meaning, if you don't have to pump the priming bulb to keep it running, then you never need to pump the priming bulb.
Yes and yes. Don't prime or use choke on warm restart, though.
Also, be sure you premix the high quality 2-cycle they spec in the instruction manual into your gas can.
Funny, the instructions for mine are right on the side and the first step is to pump the primer bulb 6 times. If you don't need to pump it, WTF is it there for? I've had several blowers and similar small engine, they all had pushing the priming bulb as the first step for starting it cold. Other people have posted the same for their blowers here. I'd say the simple thing to do is look on the blower, many times the instructions are right there. Or RTFM.
set it to Choke, fully depress the throttle and pull until it runs for a
replying to trader_4, Iggy wrote: Yep, that's what happens when you don't question and just do as you're told. Mine too and everything I've ever used says to prime. My primer's clear and you can see the fuel in there, which is why I tried it. I tried it and it worked exactly the same, I never went back to priming. By depressing the throttle you're letting the carb do its job and you can't flood it. I've never had a single problem from it.
The only function of the primer is to get enough gas in the carburetor to get it to start. If the diaphragm "valves" (the ones under the big screw) in the cheap assed Walbro are working at all the fuel will be flowing as soon as it starts as long as the other rubber diaphragm under the 4 screws is not punctured.
They are all junk, made to last until the next season, when they will not start.
Wanna make that POS 32cc engine start? Get a can of "starting ether"!
nb
I got a 6-year-old Stihl blower. Hasn't failed to start yet.
I'm so happy for you! ;)
I used a Stihl weed eater, jes last Summer. After trying --w/o success-- to start it fer about an hour, I finally found the can of 'starter fluid' that went with it. Started right up! ;)
We have 6 dead gas trimmers in our shop.
nb
Why? Are you waiting for the second coming? ;)
Ask again, in 6 mos, when I'm on the "Board" (kinda like an HOA). ;)
nb
That is only a problem if you store gas. The Walbro carbs have no problem with ethanol and of you don't let it sit around it will not phase separate. I have a boat and it has burned nothing but E-10 since that became the cheapest gas. We are 12 month boaters so the gas keeps moving, My lawn equipment uses gas in that fuel stream. If a can I mixed starts getting old, it goes in the boat, oil and all but I try not to keep "lawn" gas. I always have fresh boat gas in the shed.
Tip: get a 10 CC syringe from the drug store (they might just give it to you). That is 50:1 in a 1/2 liter of gas. Check your machine's tank volume and do a little arithmetic. A tank of gas is X cc of oil. Mix it right in the tank. I wrote on the machines with a sharpie pen. If I am not cutting up a hurricane's worth of downed trees or something, I mix a tank of gas at a time and dump it out when I am done. Run it till it stops. Pour that dumped out gas into something you will be using. A couple of CCs of oil in your car or boat will not even be noticed
replying to gfretwell, Iggy wrote: Uh-huh. But, we're not talking about a neglected carb. The guy just wants to know if he needs to do all the fiddling around garbage and if he should be holding the throttle in. I just did my instructions violating procedure a few hours ago and I was up and running in 20-seconds.
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