Lazy man's re-modeling project

Well, the big garage sale is over and I got rid of lots of stuff including a big ole king size bed in the upstairs bed room. We don't use that bedroom any more so I want to re-model the room and have a couple of smaller beds there for a guest bedroom and create a storage area.

This is an old farm house and the drywall is old with a couple or three layers of wall paper over it. Behind the drywall will be lathing (or lathe or whatever you call it) with some damn kind of concrete type stuff between the cracks. The wall have had foam insulation blown in to them back in the 1970 and that has probably shrunk a bit so the insulation is likely not that good. The ceiling probably has a paper type insulation blown in but I wonder because a squirrel got in there years ago and was rolling walnut around and making quite a racket.

The inside dimensions of the room is 13 1/2 feet by 11 1/2 feet. The ceiling is 7 ft. 5 inches high except for 3 ft on each side follows the roof line ending at the exterior wall at a height of 5 ft 10 inches. My father-in-law added this room on back in the mid 1940's when this was their main residence and he ran the drywall along the ceiling joists instead of across them so the ceiling sags a little bit in places.

Instead of doing all that work of removing the old drywall and the lathing I am thinking of just installing some 1x 4 or 2 x 4 spacers attached to the studs and rafters. I would want to add some kind of additional insulation, maybe Styrofoam board, and attach the new drywall to the new spacers.

My main concern about doing this the easy way is the insulation. I wonder if insulating the inch or two between the old drywall and the new would do much good.

I also wonder if I should just tear everything out to the studs to check for any structural damage and properly insulate the wall. This room has exterior walls on three sides.

What do you-all think about this situation?

David

Reply to
hibb
Loading thread data ...

It would depend on several factors, but in general I'd opt for the rip it out, rewire, insulate and add vapor barrier as required, and install new drywall. Your ceiling height isn't that high and building down from there doesn't make things better.

I used to enjoy doing my own demo on smaller jobs, but not so much anymore. Now I hire a rip out crew that will strip the room to the studs, pull all the nails, cart away the debris, vacuum and be done by the end of the day.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

I agree- do it right, or don't bother. Nothing worse than multiple layers of remodeling, for the next guy to wade through. Fire departments hate multiple layers, too. If they suspect hot spots in dead spaces, they have to tear off everything- a lot more time and work for them.

BTW, if it is over lath and with stuff sticking through the cracks behind, it ain't drywall, its plaster. You may have drywall over that, if there was another remodeling somewhere along the way.

-- aem sends...

Reply to
aemeijers

Crap, I'm afraid you and RicodJour are right. I was on the local volunteer fire department for about 10 years. You'd think I would remember that stuff. Looking for the easy way out causes a lot of amnesia I recon.

Thanks, David

Reply to
Shy Picker

Ideally, rip it back to the studs, and then do proper insulation, vapor barrier, and drywall and all that.

As another fine person mentioned, fire damage and fire in the walls. My other thought is water, risk of a roof or wall leak.

While you have the beds out, and the room reasonably open, might as well do it right.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Yep, I recon that is what I'll have to do.

David

Reply to
Shy Picker

It actually sounds easier too this time. Worse part will be carting the flotsam back out but you may be able to just lower it out a window.

BTW, once you get it to bare wall, have an electrician check stuff (unless you are a good one). Quite cheap at that stage. You can add more outlets too real easy.

Reply to
cshenk

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.