Knotty pine - too many knots!!

Here is a suggestion! One that goes to your question, does not involve starting over, cutting out the knots, nots or gnots or painting.

You could wash a glaze or a thinned out paint over them. This look is in right now. The kilz thinned may actually do it. You could even tint it a bit. Wash down the cabinets with the glaze, waterd down paint or thinned kilz. Not too much or you will mask the wood grain. Remember, you can easily add more glaze, removing will be a bitch. Try some scraps first to find what you like. Once done varnish over the glaze and you are done.

Here is a link to a company that puts different finishes on knotty pine cabinets. They use glaze or stain or both with probably a lacquer top coat.

good luck and post some before and after pictures on a website.

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Not quite true. The trees haven't changed - what we are willing to settle for has. As long as they send the good lumber overseas to people who won't settle for crap, we'll continue to get the leftovers here.

Bob S.

We settle for wood cut from second growth becuase there is less old growth available to be felled.

The most practical solution is to paint them to blend with the rest of the wood. How many doors are there? How many have too many knots? You might be more pleased, in the long run, to put laminate on the doors. Not horribly expensive.

I see we have new Bob S. posting in the group...

I posted earlier but for whatever reason it didn't make it thru. I noticed the OP cross-posted his question to several groups and maybe that's where my reply went instead of here.

Paint is certainly an option but he could also use gel stains and/or artists paints to lighten the knots and blend them in by feathering the stain to lessen their presence.

(the original....;-)

Bob S.

I completely agree with the suggestion to use a stain killer primer (aka Kilz). Knotty pine is RICH with oils that will bleed thru almost any other type of paint, stain, or primer. For a smooth finish AFTER the stain killer primer is applied, use a wood filler.

I'm gonna have to get back to read all posts, but before I do: I sand/poly a pic table every year. Last year before I polied I wiped Lacquer thinner over the bare pine where there was blackening from water exposure. Maybe it was the sun, but it definetely bleached it white. It was like a full makeover!

I bought some pine furniture which has lots of knots, but its good stuff. Popping is not necc a worry; see

you can paint over it later, I think, and pine /poly should darken over time. Darkening is explained elsewhere in the link I give elsewhere.

More true than not true. The cheap and easy old-growth stuff has been largely cut down here in the lower 48, and you now have to haul it from Canada, and eventually, Siberia, once they get their act together. The old-growth that is left is largely in areas that aren't easily loggable, and/or protected from logging. Try buying clear-grain pine for trim sometime. (Forget about redwood). All you'll find is finger-joint, unless cash is no object. I could cry thinking about all the 3-4 foot scraps that I threw on the burn pile as a kid. Who knew? Any more, I would squirrel those away for window and cabinet trim repairs. Increased durability isn't the only reason that faux wood made from sawdust and pop bottles has caught on for trim work- real wood good enough to not warp in a year has gotten damn expensive.

I visited northern Europe last year, on the edge of the former USSR, and positively drooled over the truckloads of lumber I saw heading into the pallet and crate plants. Due to lack of a functioning market system, a lot of their forests basically have lain fallow for 50+ years, and weren't heavily logged before that. Their equivilant of a 2x10, a little thicker and wider because of metric, is some damn nice looking lumber. I'd love to get a couple seatrain boxes worth over here for household projects. T&G interior paneling is dirt-common, and has almost no knots. They usually let it go naked, or at most, put a clear sealer on it.

aem sends....