The HOT water fill on my Kenmore 110 washer is painfully slow, down to a
trickle. COLD is fine.
Great pressure and flow from the hose.
The screens on the inlet connectors are clear.
All logic says that it should be the water valve, but I've had it apart twice,
inspecting & cleaning it thoroughly each time. I've switched plungers with the
COLD and reassembled it. Still the HOT is slow and the COLD is great.
It's the 3 valve unit that runs about $70, and the washer is almost 10 years
old. First of all I hate to spend the $70, but my testing doesn't definitively
point to the valve.
Please send more clues!!!!
Do you have two orange wires on the vacuum break water inlet (where the
water goes into the tub)? This has a thermistor to control water
temperature, and is notorious for going bad. Your symptoms sound just like
what would happen in those cuircumstances.
There is a thermistor in the line leading from the valve assy. to the tub.
Is that what you mean? (Colors are different, not orange)
According to the diagram it runs up to a logic board marked ETC-DTC.
I measured the thermistor at about 40K ohms.
If I wanted to bypass it, would I disconnect it and leave it open, or connect
the wires together to send a closed signal to the board?
Since I had it opened up again:
I've taken the valve apart again and cleaned it, again.
This time I switched plungers/actuators with the COLD, and I swapped the coil
with the deterg. valve. Still the same SLOWWWW HOT water.
Now this has become a quest!!
By now I could have bought a new washer for the time I've spent on this beast.
Swapped hoses, and the water is still slow when switched to HOT.
Step two, I swapped the connectors going to the HOT-COLD coils.
Same thing, water from the suspect port is slow.
Dan O and you are right, that that test would seem to indicate the valve is bad,
and I tend to agree. Yet still not 100% sure about the valve.
That dammed thermistor in the line really makes me wonder if the ETC board can
actually modulate the hot water, not just ON-OFF but actually adjust it. My
knowledge of circuitry and valve operation tells me no-it just snaps on and off
the water flow.
Swapping the coils should have eliminated this possibility.
Any day now I will surrender and buy a new valve, yet the fact I can't repair
it, or at least move the problem to the COLD side bothers me!!
It's a simple device that I've fully disassembled and cleaned. No obstructions
in the valve body...I've swapped the HOT plunger/actuator with the COLD one.
I've swapped the coils from the HOT to the COLD. I've disassembled the plunger
and checked for unobstructed movement.
Thanks for the help,
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