I am planning to build a retaining wall that will be around 50' in
length, using concrete blocks from HD like this
http://tinyurl.com/cafa5te . There seems to be a ton of laser levelers @
amazon and I am looking for one under $100 that will emit a strong
enough beam that can be easily seen from one end to the other. Any
input/recommendations would be appreciated.
On May 13, 8:13 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
With those blocks, why the string? Aren't they "self-leveling" once
the foundation is level?
As for water levels there are a couple things that will throw them
1. Air bubble in line - I've never figured out why it throws it off
but it can.
2. Part of tube in shade, other in sun.
No, they're not.
Here's how the Egyptians got each concourse of blocks level:
After laying a layer of blocks, the engineers constructed a copper cofferdam
around the perimeter. Into this they poured water. As the water evaporated,
bits of stone would protrude from the water. Whenever a bit of stone
appeared, some workers would scamper over to the high spot and shave it down
to the level of the liquid.
After a few (two? three?) sandings, they'd have a dog-gone smooth, level,
surface, ready for the next layer.
What does handmade stone blocks have to do with factory manufactured
standard size blocks?
No, after the foundation is level there is no need for a string.
Those blocks are laid dry with no mortar to level them.
Do you _really_ think that I and the others in this forum don't know
about a string level?
The "level" and "plumb" are built into the blocks. Unless you start
adding mortar or sand while laying them, there is no adjustment you
can make. Get your foundation level and go.
Certainly you want to be level on the top of the first course (with
I understand this guy is doing rubble stone so I think plumb is all
that is relatively important until you get close to the top. Again, a
string line is all you need..
What "conclusion" would that be? It was a question, not a statement.
I just thought
it odd that that you bothered to post a picture of something everyone
A string level is just about the most inaccurate of leveling
instruments around. Too short and unless it is in the exact middle of
the run it lies a bit.
And I pointed out that, except for leveling the foundation, it is not
Buy a 100' of clear plastic tubing for about $25. And a couple of
buckets from the dollar store.
Much more accurate, versatile, and longer lasting than the electronic
gadget. [I've got both-- used the laser a few times, and checked
it with the water/tubing.] Want to buy a slightly used laser level?
The tubing works day or night; you can leave it out in the rain- drop
a brick on it- works around corners. . .
You'll use the 50 feet just to set things up--- a decent 4' bubble
level will keep you honest after the initial layout.
What do you need any of this for, Just use your garden hose.
Set one end at the desired height (tape it to a stick) and get the
other end close. Add water if the water is low. The far end is self
regulating and when you get the end even with the other one the water
will be even with the top of the hose.
You only have to do this once to mark your grade stakes so it doesn't
matter if it takes a few minutes and a few tries.
Once you get your first course laid and level build up from that.
Build the corners with stair steps toward the center, set the line
with line blocks and lay the CMUs to the line.
Any laser should be seen at 50ft. Even those $5 laser pointers go
further than that. Buy what is affordable. Then dont leave the
batteries in them. They corrode and destroy the tool, just like a
Before you buy the block, check other sources. We have three in our
small town. You may find styles you like better at about the same
price, delivered to the job. You don't want to have to load and
unload that stuff if you don't have to.
+1 on that--- Not to mention, the advice I got from my local block
supplier [and maker] was worth more than the $1500 worth of block I
Patio and wall looking just fine a decade after-
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