What good is a jackpad with a slot if the slot is not deeper than the
thing it holds? Isn't the idea that the weld area fits completely in
the slot and the car is supported on either side of the slot?
I accidentally came across a jack pad with a slot in it, so the weld
line on unibody cars doesn't hold the weight of the car when you jack it
up. And that's when I realized a) I need that, b) the jack that came
with the car has a slot, but if I jack it up at home I use a better jack
with no slot, c) there is already damage from people before me jacking
it up, and d) the drain holes in the fender could be damaged if I were
stupid enough to put the jack there.
But...... the slots range from 1/4 inch to 0.63 inches, and my pinch
weld is almost an inch high on the outside and higher yet on the inside.
What good is that?
On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 8:09:06 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
Forget about the answer, I don't think anyone can even figure out what
the question was.
"What good is a jackpad with a slot if the slot is not deeper than the
thing it holds? "
I've never found a sl0t deeper than the thing it holds. Maybe you
need a bigger thing.
In rec.autos.tech, on Thu, 07 Sep 2017 16:15:21 -0500, AMuzi
This is great. Thanks. The poster says "I set the blade on my table
saw so it cuts slightly deeper than the height of the pinch weld", so he
seems to understand the idea better than any of those who make and sell
them commercially. The vendors had pictures and one or two showed that
the car was still resting on the pinch weld, inside the slot.
This mattered especially because my new 2004 Sebring had the water
drains inside the pinch weld, about 5 per side, instead of having an
opening at the rear end of the rocker panel like every other convertible
I've had, and convertibles get a lot of water between their roof and the
trunk. They're designed that way, with a gutter that runs the water to
the side. But even though I can avoid the putting the jack where a
drain is, I don't like crusing part of my car. There is already damage
from before I had the car.
Unfortunately, the engine failed on the Sebring last Sunday, after I had
the car for 10 weeks and 800 miles! That will teach me not to buy a
2.7L engine. So yesterday I bought another Solara, and even though I've
had one for 6 years, I don't remember if it has a pinch weld or not.
In rec.autos.tech, on 16 Sep 2017 11:18:14 -0400, email@example.com
(Scott Dorsey) wrote:
No log. It was one of 4 gold Sebrings for sale on ebay motors that
week, and it was the newest, in the best cosmetic condition, and it had
only 72,000 miles. The others had more. When I got it there was a
sticker on the windhield that it had the oil changed only 1000 miles
earlier, but who knows what happened before that. I didnt' try to check
carfax, largely because I never have before, but I did this time and
even the free version has more information than I expected, at least
when the maintenance/repairs are done by a reporting shop. (What % of
shops participate in this?)
Some part inside the engine. I was only going 65 and when I got to a
toll booth, the engine stalled. And wouldn't restart. When cranked the
engine sort of jingled, like shaking a key ring. Not a single cylinder
ignited and it didn't sound like a normal engine during cranking without
ignition. My mechanic told me what a problem Chrysler 2.7L engines
were when he inspected it so I could get plates, but I've always had
good luck** with used cars, so I still wasn't worried. Even though I
lost 4000 dollars, I'm still not upset, because for 6 years I wanted a
gold Sebring, and for 10 weeks and 800 miles I had one. That's more than
most people can say.
Apparently what happens is one of the dohcams stops, the timing *chain*
stalls or breaks, and iirc it's an interference engine. I didn't worry
about that since it had a chain, not a belt, but chains break too it
Don't tell me I could have fixed it cheap. It's gone now and I don't
want to hear it. It was a nice car except I could feel every bump. So
I went back to a Solara. In the first 8 weeks I had the car, I drove
both on the same streets, and on one street, the Sebring really shook on
several places -- I couldn't see while driving what made the bump, which
was an inch long and ran the width of the road -- but in the Solara, I
felt nothing and could barely hear anything. I hate to praise the car,
which had several small things I didn't like in comparison to any of the
LeBarons, but the ride is good. They were both quiet.
I had 3 Chrysler LeBArons in a row, for 23 years, and I don't remember
their ride being rough. The Sebring was never a copy of the Lebaron --
made in a different plant I think and various things were different --
but do you think there is a chance that when daemler owned Chrysler they
changed the car to be more European, meaning, I'm told, a stiffer
suspension and the bumps I felt???
Another difference might have been that whenever I took my eyes off the
highway, to get a banana from the passensger seat, or even to adjust the
radio, I would stray into another lane??? Maybe I shouldn't do those
things but I've done them in all the other cars without leaving my lane.
Maybe I just needed more time with the car to learn how to drive
straight in highway driving even during a 5 or 10 second distraction,
but it happened almost every time. If I still had the car I'd drive it
without my hands and see how that went, but I didn't notice any other
**This was the 7th used car I've bought and I think only for one have I
spent more than 100 dollars on repairs in the first two years. Maybe
it's more than that but not much. The one exception needed a repaired
transmission, didn't have high gear, which I think cost me 1000, but
this was during the convertible shortage and I had to check out 12
counties in and around NYC with 15 million people to find even one I
wanted, so I would have bought it even if I'd noticed.
In rec.autos.tech, on Sat, 16 Sep 2017 19:52:29 -0400,
I was just answering his question. I don't want to discuss repairs or
really anything. I'm handling my 4000 loss pretty well and I want to
keep it that way!
In rec.autos.tech, on Sat, 16 Sep 2017 19:53:17 -0700, Bob F
That sounds pretty good. It would mean the notch is there only to
position the pad, and the pad is used so that the rib wouldn't just be
sitting on the jack's "saddle" at the two places on its circumference.
If you're right, the guy who made his own seems to have made the notch
The scissors jack in the trunk also had a notch, but I didn't measure
how deep it was compared to the rib, and alas, the car is gone now,
never to return. But maybe I'll find another one to check some day.
The notch in the jack is to prevent the jack from sliding out fromm
under the car, or the re-enforced portion of the pinch weld from
slipping off the jack. The notch is never deep enough to let the flat
surface of the rocker panel contact the jack, as the sheet metal of
the rocker panel is not anywhere near strong enough to support the
vehicle on the jack
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