Live in cold midwest - am getting ready to drywall portions of my house
that have been re-modeled. Wanted some recomendations on insulation
r-values. Contractor did the construction, but I am doing insulation
to save a few bucks..
Going with fiberglass... for ease of instalation.. etc.
Outside walls - currently has r-11 but most has come down.. so will be
replacing the stuff that has been exposed by removal of drywall. What
R value should I go with.
Ceiling between 1st and 2nd floor - Had insulation between joists, I
have to assume it was for noise. Most has come down during
contruction, will be replacing it. What R value?
Bedroom walls - build a second floor laundry, want to sound insulate as
much as possible.. what r-value should I use in walls (regular 2x4 stud
Have to get this done in the next 48 hours, so any specialized products
are not an option, has to be off-the shelf from Lowes or HD (or simular)
Go with R-asmuchasyoucan The deciding factor will be the wall cavity. You
can only fit so much material in the space of a 2 x 4 or 2 x 6. Only other
wayis to use a different mateial wiht a higher R value per inch.
If both spaces are heated equally, it will make no real difference.
R value has nothing to do with sound insulation. Thee are some materials
that are supposed to help though. Check out hte Owens-Corning web page for
what they offer.
The most that will fit in the cavity without compressing it.
Since there should be little or no temperature difference R value is
I suggest adding an additional layer of drywall as that will do far more
good than stuffing standard insulation in there. The do make some sound
control insulation that will help some.
Even more important would be any air to air exchanges. For example you
don't want to use a shared air return as the sound will just travel through
it from room to room.
Laundries have a special issue with vibration. You want to isolate the
machinery from the structure with flexible materials.
You should be able to find a lot of ideas and maybe some products at:
You also want to prevent any direct solid connections. Stagger wall
studs or use special isolation devices to keep the sound from traveling
through the wall (remember the two cans on a string (well wire actuarially
worked) you want to break the wire).
Filling in wall cavities with sound absorbing materials (accustical
fiberglass bats) will do a little.
The isolation stuff for the equipment can be done later.
seal all around outlets etc, use unfaced insulation and cover all
inside walls with heavy mill plastic like 10 mill.
the big rush 48 hours isnt good it will lead to cuttiong corners and
endless energy loss.....
I would price closed cell foam in place, its sound deadening and a
excellent insulator, but requires a pro install.
if you ever heat just some rooms like we do insulate between floors
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