I want to install a STRONG shelf on my garage wall about a foot
above the floor. The shelf will be on the wall between the garage
and the house.
I plan to attach a 2 by 4 to the wall with lag bolts into the bottom
plate of the wall. The back of shelf will sit on the 2 by 4
attached to the wall and the front will sit on another 2 by 4
supported by 2 by 4 legs.
(The garage floor is about a foot below the finished floor of the
house which is above the crawlspace. I live in an frost-free area
so I do not have a basement. The bottom foot of the wall in the
garage is concrete.)
I want to attach 2 by 4 cross pieces to the front and back 2 by 4's
with joist hangers about every 16 inches. I plan to attach the legs
to the front 2 by 4 with upside-down joist hangers. I will use
drywall screws to fasten the joist hangers to the 2 by 4's. I will
use the largest particle board shelf I can find at Home Depot or
Lowes as the top of the shelf. I think I have seen some that are 8
feet by 16 inches by about 0.75 inches thick.
Does what I have described sound like a good plan? Can you think of
anything I could change that would make the shelf easier to make, or
less expensive? Thank you in advance for any help.
When I am in the kitchen, I often kick one of my cat's balls.
After I kick it, he will sometimes play with it for a few
"TimR" wrote in message
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 11:48:29 AM UTC-4, Daniel Prince wrote:
Can you use 16 inches instead of 12? Just stack two concrete blocks. Put
the shelf on top of them. Stronger and cheaper.
They make 4 inch wide blocks also. stick them together with a few dabs of
Just how strong is "STRONG"? How much weight and of what type
(concentrated vs distributed) load?
I'd be _very_ surprised if you put enough on it that simply nailing up a
frame w/ 16d commons thru the outer rims before mounting to wall
wouldn't be sufficient. I'd probably just notch the legs and nail them
as well and dispense w/ the hangers.
Also, if you really are talking of supporting a lot of weight, 3/4 CDX
ply is much more suitable than particle board (albeit that's a cost
boost, not decrease).
Purpose of "shelf"? What kind of load do you expect, and what dimensions?
Sounds more like you're building a bench...
I'd build the basic frame on a flat floor to make sure the frame ends up being flat. Don't use drywall screws, they're brittle and will snap under load.
Consider bracing the lower portion of the legs to prevent the legs from shifting/weakening under load. Or just use concrete block as another post suggested.
On Wed, 3 Jul 2013 11:22:22 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com wrote:
Unless I knew what's it for, it's hard to say.
A single shelf a foot off the floor? Why even attach it to the wall?
I'd call it a platform, because it's too low down to call it a
workbench. But maybe it is a bench, like for an audience.
If the floor is dry and is flat enough, one thing nobody mentioned is
what I'll just call "floor shelf."
Whatever color you want the shelf to be, just paint the floor that
color in whatever size shelf you want. So nobody misunderstands
your intent, paint or decal "SHELF" around the border.
The real beauty of the floor shelf is when something falls off the
shelf to the floor, it doesn't have far to go.
I have two old bookcases and a steel cabinet against the wall. I
had several termite mud tunnels behind the bookcases and the cabinet
that I could not see. I want to put the bookcases and the cabinet
on the shelf with the space under the shelf empty so that I can
easily see any termite mud tunnels. The bookcases are lightly
loaded but the steel cabinet is full of power tools and extension
cords so it is moderately heavy.
Can you recommend screws that are as easy to drive as drywall screws
but are not brittle?
When a cat sits in a human's lap both the human and the cat are usually
happy. The human is happy because he thinks the cat is sitting on him/her
Actually, I've never had a DW screw snap under load. Yes, sometimes, in
some materials, they will snap while driving them in. But that's a
twisting action, not pure shear or tensile. I put up shelves in my
garage using a 2x2 frame under each 1/2"+ OSB shelf surface. The
verticals are only 1x2s and the diagonal supports on the bottom are
2x2s. All done with drywall screws into the studs in the walls. The
frame itself is nailed together with pneumatic finishing nails. I can
put my 200+lb body on the shelves with virtually no movement. I
actually have a pic of me on the shelf, but I will spare you that site.
Check out this pic
and the next few. Presently, there is a lot more weight on them than in
If they're only in compression and not shear they'll serve to hold
pieces together, but, as noted previously, why? Just nail it together;
if you arrange it right all they're doing is holding the pieces in place.
As suggested before just build the square frame and fasten it to the
wall then use a few strategically-located legs(+) under for supports.
If you either just fit them under (w/ a scab to hold in place) or
(better) notch to match, then the weight is all transferred to them and
the fasteners aren't doing anything to hold up the weight; that's being
borne by the end grain of the legs and the compressive load on the
frame/shelf. No need to make it any more complex than needs be...
(+) Since is garage and you've indicated some existing termite issues,
I'd suggest using p-treated for the parts touching floor/concrete and
the back wall cleat/frame piece. That'll minimize desirability of the
pieces that are in contact and not fully visible at least.
If you want to keep the wardrobe cabinet, maybe just put that up on a few
bricks or blocks so you can look under it for termite tunnels. And then
just get two sets of the shelves that I posted about earlier and use them to
replace the wooden shelves that you have now.
I'm purposely not getting into argument about the strength of drywall
screws because I don't think that's the main concern here.
I'd be more concerned about dampness, thus the suggestion to use PT wood
for any wood that touches concrete.
Drywall screws will rust and eventually disintegrate if they remain wet. I
would suggest that you use Deckmates or other such screws that are designed
for exterior use.
Not only will they last longer, but the star drive will make them much
easier to install.
And, there's really no need for screws, per se, anyway...other than the
one ledger against the wall, possibly, and even there a 12 or 16d common
will be all it'll ever need. And, as for the rest of the frame, ditto.
There's nothing in tension to need anything more if it's designed at
Given the choice of attaching the ledger with screws or nails, I'll choose
screws every time. In fact, given the choice of nails vs. screws for any
attachment, I'll choose screws virtually every time. Easy install, easy
Obviously there are times when nails make more sense, like trim, etc.
However, if I'm building a frame for a shelf or anything similar, it's
getting screwed together.
Granted, if I had a framing nailer or even a palm nailer, I might use nails
for some projects, but when it's a choice between a hammer and screw gun,
the screw gun wins out every time.
OP said he was going w/ lag's for that so I presumed we were talking the
frame, etc., primarily if not exclusively. OTOH, for his purpose, it'll
never come off o' there if just nailed, either--
I've got both but the hammer will win almost every time w/ me--it's less
nuisance and cheaper and unless there's a real reason for the screw it
just doesn't turn me on (so to speak... :) )...
A prime reason may be you'll play the devil driving a screw of _any_
sort in any of this 100-yo SYP which is 90% of what I'm generally
dealing with either in the house or any of the outbuildings. OTOH I
_can_ drive a nail in it.
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