First, I'm not totally sure on how to do it the RIGHT way -- I've read
vigorous debates on using concrete vs. sand and gravel only. Holmes did a
fence job, used concrete.
Then the Q of the diameter of the hole, the depth, visavis expected wind
load, etc. The typical stockade fencing has no gaps for wind diffusion!
An *easier* way -- but debatably better, esp. from an aethetics pov -- is to
put a minimal footing down -- mebbe a piece of rebar struck a foot down --
and then tether the TOP of the fence to some firm structure: house, tree,
This eliminates virtually all bending-type forces, assuming the top tether
is strong/rigid enough.
Or, just put that angle ditty from midway on the fence, to the ground a foot
out from the fence? And the Q is, what footing is used for this method?
Here's another scenario:
Putting tall fences on the inside of a wall, in the traditional way, will
allow a wind to exert large crowbar-like forces on the wall , increasing
odds of cracking, crumbling, or toppling.
Tethering at the top would eliminate this crowbar effect.
Any thoughts, opinions, experiences?
When I had my 6' stockade fence installed professionally in 1986, the
contractor only put concrete in the corner posts and in the post holes
on both sides of the gate opening.
The 4x4 PT posts were buried 3' into the ground all around and they have
stood for about 24 years. I did replace the sections between the posts
last year since they had partially rotted, and the posts were still
On Sat 17 Apr 2010 01:06:26p, Existential Angst told us...
We just installed a 6' stockade fence in a windy desert area. We elected
to use pre-constructed 8' panels affixed to 4x4s. The 4x4s are 8' long,
2' of which is embedded in concrete. We used an 80 lb bag of concrete per
hole. I'd guesstimate that the holes were about 1' in diameter. Shortly
after construction we a storm where the winds reached 60-70 mph. *nothing*
moved, and the fence seems quite solid.
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