Tue, 01 Nov 2016 02:38:43 GMT in
AFAIK, the offset phase doesn't offer protection from surging
power/lightning strikes and/or component failures with the power
company that causes incoming current to exceed what your appliance is
rated for, no.
Make yourself sheep and the wolves will eat you.
On Sun, 30 Oct 2016 18:18:18 -0400, Dan Espen wrote:
I wouldn't bank on that, but if it's true, that's as it should be.
But not every guarantee is as it should be.
Light Bulb Maker Takes $21M Hit In FTC False Ad Suit
“In advertising and marketing its LED Lamps with false and unsubstantiated
claims, LOA misrepresented the light output and *lifetime* of its LED
Lamps,” the judge held. “Those misrepresentations are claims consumers rely
upon in selecting lighting products. Because LOA’s LED Lamps did not perform
as advertised, consumers were harmed because what they purchased was
something different than advertised.”
Maybe not inexpensive, but Home Depot sells some 2 LED shop lights for
about $ 40. I put some in the basement a year or two ago to solve the
I have not lookid into it,but have heard that you can get some LED tubes
to replace the flourescent ones. I want to say the ballast has to come
out,but not sure. You may be able to get by with just 2 tubes in each
ficture as the LEDs seem to be brighter.
Maybe less expensive,but don't think I would want to do it is to put in
a bunch of the regular light bulb sockets and put the LED bulbs in them.
That is actually a 2'x4' lay-in fluorescent fixture. There are LED retrofit kits available. I would get a retro kit that does not use the existing ballast. As far as quick, cheap, and simple, you will have to make your own determination.
Everyone is touting LEDs but IME they are not ready for prime time.
About a year ago, I bought three circular LEDs for our bathrooms. Within 4
months, 2 of the 3 were flickering so badly they were unuseable. They were
replaced with incandescent using fixtures, bye-bye flicker. Now the third
is flickering and it too will be replaced.
The flourescent bulbs in my garage have been there 20 years, same for 6 out
of 10 in my shop. If it were me, I would replace the four bulb with
diffuser units you now have with two bulb strip T-8 units, (sans diffuser,
the diffuser eats up about 1/2 of the light emitted). Those units are about
$25 at a borg.
On Saturday, October 29, 2016 at 5:29:27 PM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
sams club sells 2 brite fluroscent equivalents for 34 bucks.
i am going to replace nearl all my fluroscent shop lights.....
the fixtures are over 30 years old, new lamps dont last...
the LEDs look awesome. save your receipt, and return if they dont work well
Just as with any other product, there are many variables to consider and
in the case of LEDs, manufacture is key. There are cheap LEDs and there
are quality LEDs. You may have purchased cheap China brand LEDs with
IMO, thus far, I think Cree products are top notch and one can't go
wrong when purchasing one of them.
There's an old saying... You get what you pay for. If you want lighting
that is going to perform well and last, you will need to spend a little
Decent fluorescent fixtures with T8 Bulbs and electronic ballast will cost
about $50 each (not including bulbs). But they come on instantly (even in
cold weather), don't have any flicker, and don't make any noise. One
example are these fixtures at Home Depot:
Earlier this year I upgraded the lights in my garage/shop using the
fixtures above. I have a web page and video showing the steps and methods I
I had hoped to use LED lights, but LED shop lights cost twice as much and
put out less light (fewer lumens). Since I only use my garage lights
occasionally, the lower power usage wouldn't really make much difference in
the long run. So I stayed with the fluorescent fixtures.
My original T8 lights were almost 15 years old, but were still working
great. So I was able to keep those and just add more fixtures to keep costs
This is my dilemma, exactly.
I love all the ideas, which all end up though, at:
a. Keep the old system (cheapest in the short term)
b. Switch to LEDs (expensive in the short term)
Long term, I don't think anyone argues LEDs aren't better.
I'm in a cash crunch though, with lights going out, one by one.
On Sun, 30 Oct 2016 17:30:12 -0000 (UTC), Bill Moinihan
Just replace them one at a time with LED fixtures. Replace the worst one
first!!! Eventually they will pay for themselves in saving on the
electric bill and not having to buy more bulbs.
It's just like my yard light, (farm light on a pole). I had a 175W
mercury vapor bulb. Every 1 ro 2 years, I spent $15 for a bulb, often
had to replace the sensor too (another $12). Last year the ballast
apparently died, (New bulb and sensor did not fix it). I spent the $120
to buy a LED fixture. It paid for itself in several months. My electric
bill dropped from $15 to $25 a month (depending on length of daylight).
Better yet, it's brighter, and dont flicker like those MV lights tend to
do. I figure that I've paid for the fixture and saved another $50 to $70
on my electric bill by now.
I think I'm stuck with replacing the noisy bulbs.
But I don't think my electric bill is the real problem because the lights
aren't on all that long. Just when I'm working in the garage (or when the
kids leave them on all night).
The noise and flicker are probably caused by a failing ballast.
If the fixtures are in good condition (no metal rust and the plastic cover
still in good shape), you could simply replace the bulbs and install new
electronic ballasts. If your existing fixtures use the old T12 bulbs, you
might see if you could convert them to T8 bulbs. You can probably find
everything you need at the local home center, or shop online.
Thanks for that advice.
I took off that center plate and found two old (made in usa!) ballasts, one
of which was buzzing badly, the other of which I'm not totally sure if it's
working because I could only get 1 lane to light up consistently.
I'll test the second ballast more thoroughly today as I couldn't figure out
which two lanes went to each ballast, so I was getting confused as I put
bulbs in and out.
If it turns out just one ballast is bad, can I just cut it out of the
equation? I would think all I have to do is cut the black and white power to
the bad ballast, and then cap it off with a wire nut.
Then I could either use the fixture with just two bulbs on the good ballast,
or, I could pick up one of those T8 "electronic" ballasts, and run the T8
LED bulbs in them.
Does the fixture work fine with one ballast power line cut?
The price was $7 per tube:
All is done, except for the last most problematic lamp, which has a buzzing
ballast out of the two ballasts (and the other one is only lighting one
So, now, my only decision is to repair or replace the one bad fixture.
According to your package photo, the light output of your bulb is 1700
A standard T8 fluorescent bulb provides about 2800 lumens.
So, you may notice a bit less light from your fixture after installing the
LED bulbs usually don't need a ballast at all. You might read through the
bulb instructions to see if you can do away with the ballast.
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