My wife has had it with the carpet in our kitchen (i really don't blame
her). So we all know what that means, Fred is going to be installing
Here is the catch. A few years ago I remodeled our basement. One of the
joist under the kitchen was failing so I put in another joist next to
the old one. In doing so, I jacked up the floor a little too far and did
not catch it until it was way too late; after the glue dried and the
bolts were in.
So anyway, there is hump in the floor. It is not visually noticeable
with the carpet down but you can feel it when you walk across the floor.
I have to say, that portion of the floor is REAL strong.
Short of very small tile (really don't want tile) what are our options?
I really think that using sheet lanolium would be a very bad idea as it
will telegraph the hump and cheapen the kitchen.
Take the bolts out and see if it slips any, run a sawzall down the glue
Redo the repair.
Or set your tile in a full mortar bed and adjust for the hump.
What? you thought there was a shortcut?
Fred Wilson wrote:
Hahaha, funny reply. Not really a shortcut. Is there really a shortcut
for my stupidity?
Be kind of hard to redo the job, the basement if completely finished.
What about Cork floor. Think it might be flexible enough to mold to the
hump and not be too noticeable?
I have cork in my bathroom. I think it is about as flexible as vinyl or
linoleum, but any hard surface is going to show your hump. I think the
best solution is to fix the defect in the subflooring.
Fred Wilson wrote:
How big a hump, if you put a 4 foot level across it how much space do you
have on each side. After stripping down to the sub-floor, possibly you could
add some floor levelling compound to each side so that the hump tapers off,
that way it would be less noticeable. This way you would have more
flexibility on the type of floor covering. Full 3/4 hardwood would never
"flow" over the hump even if you taper it off, but many of the 3/8"
engineered floorings will follow a gentle bump in the floor.
How bad is the hump? Lots of vinyl sheet flooring will work in kitchens
and is forgiving of small errors. Other solutions are to feather the hump a
bit with a sander or leveling compound.
I can't see your problem from here so I can't advise you about the weight
of leveling compound but normally leveling compound isn't applied so thickly
that weight is a problem. Just how tall is this hump and how abruptly does
the floor rise? Is it the height or the sudden rise that is a problem?
How much of the old floor were you planning to strip? You could always saw
out a section of subfloor, and expose the top of the now-high joist, and
plane it down. If you cut <real carefully> so the cuts land on adjacent
joists, and add blocking as needed to screw the patch back in, you could
probably feather the patch back in with leveling compound pretty easy. This
is how you replace waste lines in bathrooms above plastered ceilings. Takes
a good carpenter to pull off, but not that complicated technically. Hard
part will be all the hand work planing the joist and getting it even with
the neighbors. (Think long level with a subfloor+legacy flooring height shim
taped under it.) If you have a router, and can make a non-sagging jig to
hold it at the right height, you could relevel the top of the joist that
way. Depending on what subfloor is made of, and how it was fastened to
joists, you may even be able to reuse the cut out plug as the patch,
otherwise you will have to fake it as best you can with built-up layers of
plywood. It'll never see daylight again, so it doesn't have to be pretty,
just strong and squeak-free. Screws and construction adhesive are the
fasteners of choice for reassembly.
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