Mainly, base your figures on how many 4x8 or 4x12 (minus trimmings)
sections of wall you want to cover. With as little flat-butted (no pun
intended- where butted edges are full thickness) joint to tape as
possible, and with as much factory-tapered to factory-tapered edges as
possible butted. Taping will be the big part of the drywalling.
In general, square feet of surface to be covered divided by 32 (if
using 4x8 sheets) = number of sheets. Wouldn't hurt to add one extra
sheet. Do not subtract for door/window cutouts. You should make a
quick sketch of the layout as that can save you significant seamage.
In a normal room (with one or more doors and some windows) you can save
considerable seamage by intalling horizontal vice verticle. Butt
joints are made to fall over/under doors and windows. The taping is
easier that way also. May not work in a basement
Make a dimensioned drawing of room ur doing, take it in to the wallboard
supplier/retailer and they will calc it for you down to the size of board
plus overage for cutting waste.
Not homodespots, they are useless, go to a real builders supply or a
Both HomeDepot and Lowes has a spin wheel calculator for this purpose
where you just put in the room dimensions. It also shows how much tape,
mud, and nails/screws you'll need.
Rusht Limpalless wrote:
Do not be tempted to try to save sheetrock by piecing over the doors and
windows; the tape joints will crack. It is caused by the physics of
horizontal and vertical lumber moving in different directions with
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