Framing with LGS (light gage steel) is realitively easy.
I've done some and got decent at it but a lot of the skills & tricks
of stick framing don't translate.
I don't know of any websites but I'm sure that a search on Google will
Here are a couple things that might help
LGS studs come in various thicknesses ...... 20 gauge comes to mind
for most residential apps
Steel studs & tracks can easily be cut with a metal cutting abrasive
wheel on your 10" miter/chop saw......
sparks / abrasive dust might be hard on your saw...rig up a
sacrificial guard to deflect them
Steel studs (either cut or from the factory can have some pretty nasty
burrs, handle carefully & keep the band-aids handy.
Studs are attached to the floor & ceiling tracks using a modified
truss head; self-drilling screw. Two screws through the tracks & stud
flanges...both ends of studs
The heads of these framing screws create slight obstructions that
prevent plywood or drywall from seating cleanly against the face of
the studs at the floor & ceiling tracks....just a fcat of screwed
together LGS framing.
Drywall can be affixed to the studs using a self-drilling drywall
LGS framing isn't hugely stiff until attached to the floor & ceiling
OR until diagonal strap bracing or sheathing is applied.
I'm not sure why Nate denigrates LGS framing....once it's properly
braced and sheathed, its strength & stiff is comparable to stick
framed walls with drywall.
I'm not a huge fan of LGS framing because my skill level with it sucks
compared to wood but it has its place.
For a "one off" partition wall, if you've got any experience with an
Erector Set or assembly of shelving requiring small screws &
nuts ......you've got enough skill to muddle through
I run it down because I've been on lots of job sites that have been
framed but not rocked - the stuff they are using can be cut with tin
snips and is hardly thicker than flashing. If you look at it funny
you'll bend it. You have to be real careful carrying materials, if you
bump into a wall that hasn't been rocked yet you can take out the whole
wall easy and then the framing guys will be pissed at you. Wood is just
WAY better in my experience - none of these downsides *and* you can run
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
Why? Because his condo board said so. Does not have to make sense.
Some fire codes call for metal studs in certain locations.
I'm not sure about the MC if you use the insulators that fit into the holes.
I know metal sheathing is needed for commercial though.
I have used tin snips to cut the flange sides and use one of those
aluminum framing squares that is about 6x6 and a razor knife to score
the back of the 4" side. Bend and break to get square cuts. There are
insulators to run wiring through. This is one I had from a prior project
in my shed.
This is others that are available.
Google has plenty of sites. Nothing hard about it.
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