It seems my IBM Thinkpad's CMOS battery has died, and it's know that
it won't boot wihtout it.
I don't have time to wait for a new one by mail, plus I have some
CR2032's in my fridge. The flat things that look like litttle
The current one has the wires connected to metal tabs stuck (welded?)
to the battery on both sides. Is there a way I can do this without
exploding or otherwise ruining the battery???????
I see that Radio Shack has a clip that holds such a battery but I
think it's too thick to fit. I just tore apart a 16 year old
computetr to get it's battery holder, but it was defintiely too thick
(Does anyone want a kit to make a 16 year-old computer?)
I didn't think solderign would work, but it occurs to me that
somewhere I have a mini torch, with one or two little tanks of gas, 2
or 3" tall, that is supposed to get very hot at a small place. Maybe
I could solder the wires to the battery with that???
On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 15:21:53 -0400, "Don Phillipson"
I've done it (in a pinch) with the silver defroster grid repair, or
silver Printed circuit repair pen to make the contact, backed up with
a chunck of appropriately sized shrink tubing to give mechanical
strength.. It is NOT robust - but works in a pinch.
They use spot welds for a reason. A spot welder wouldn't
do nearly as much thermal damage to the CR2032 as soldering would.
It would probably ruin whatever functions as a separator between
the two halves of the battery.
None of the datasheets I've downloaded for CR2032, list short
term temperature as a parameter (like whether it could support
a solder profile). The max operating temp is listed as 60C or
70C, which isn't nearly enough for soldering, even with low
temp alloys. And the cell surface could be stainless, meaning
you'd need a solder that "sticks" to that stuff. If the solder
had a bit of silver added to it, that would probably push
the melt point too high.
You could think a bit more creatively than that. For example, how many
"holes or storage spaces" are currently available or unused on the unit.
Perhaps you can craft a 3V source, using a couple regular dry cells.
At Radio Shack, I could pick up a two cell holder, two dry cells
(1.5V each), then use the wire on the existing dead CR2032 assembly,
and solder that wire to the tabs on the plastic battery holder. It's
just a matter of routing the wire inside the laptop, using any
available holes. The battery pack would hold you over until the
new CR2032 assembly comes in the mail.
You could build a regulated circuit to run off the main battery,
but then, if left that way, you could dangerously discharge the
main battery. Some battery chargers will not charge a laptop
battery, if the battery ever heads below a certain threshold.
I think it's slightly safer, to just build a battery source
using dry cells.
Have you ever tried to find a 3.0V output three terminal regulator
in town ? That is probably a mail order item as well, and will
take just as long to get here, as the pigtailed CR2032 will.
The battery holder and dry cells, I can think of two stores in
town that can provide them for me.
There are a LOT of sources for the lithium button cells with wires
attached - with the wrong plug ends on them - in most major centers.
Most electronics supply shops or pattery specialists will have one you
can cobble the correct wire end onto
But I don't buy stuff just anywhere :-)
I bought coin cells at the mall, from a "battery store",
and they were flat in a matter of days. I'm a little
more careful now, where I get stuff. I need to know a
shop has a good "turnover of stock", so I won't get
If some computer store here carried a pigtailed CR2032,
chances are it's been sitting in the shop window
for the last twenty years.
The same thing could happen with mail order, unless
the seller is big enough that their stock is fresh.
Hmmm. Too bad this is a "web only" item. I guess
it would hurt them, to have this in a retail store.
The connection tabs on such cells is done with a specialized spot welding
machine which avoids excessive heating to the metal which will at the very
least shorten the life of the cell, will sometimes kill it entirely, or
sometimes yield a nice explosion (especially with lithium I suspect).
Probably something on this page:
would be of help in your quest to connect.
I should have tried it with the battery out -- sort of too late now
(I should have read this post Saturrday instead of Sunday at
midnight)-- , but I found webpages describing the 161 and 163 error
numbers on a Thinkpad, at least some of them, and they all agreed it
was the CMOS battery.
In addition, I once had a MAC II, and though they are famous for being
better designed than PC's, the guy at the computer user group I used
to go to told me that they too will not boot without a good cmos
battery. And in the case of that computer, the battery was soldered
in, and almost everyone ended up taking it to repairman to be
serviced, JUST for this battrey. That's two levels worse than most
PCs. Oh, and apparently it was a secret back then that the battery
was the problem. So that's 3 levels worse. What he woudl do is
put in a battery holder for 2 AAA batteries iirc. so customers
wouldn't have to pay him a second time. Or maybe he was just talking
about his own computers and friends'.
Apprarently not. The fefaults must be good enough.
All I did is replace the battery, and it boots from a bootable CD. It
wouldn't do that before. It still won't boot from the HDD, because
I did sometthing wrong to the HDD, but the Hiren's Boot CD does see
(No time to work on it more for about two weeks. Going out of town.
No time even to read replies. I'll post again when I get back.)
Well, this machine was unplugged for 2+ years, during which time the
CMOS battery went dead** so the contents at that point were, I
suppose, empty or invalid, but putting in the cmos battery did
sometihng and now it's booting.
**(and probably the laptop battery too, which I probably recharged
partially by now.
NOT true on many of the early TPs.. At least one of my old 600s (E
or X, cannot remember which) would not boot at all with a dead CMOS
battery, and IIRC the T43 would not either. Had to replace the CMOS
batteries on a few to get them to boot.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.