The first thing to do is to determine what version of the NEC you are
under (2005 or 2008), and whether there are any local amendments. You
could just wire to the 2008 NEC, but the 2005 NEC provides a bit more
flexibility in certain areas.
As fixed in place equipment, it is not required to be dedicated, but
it is often a good idea. If the nameplate current draws are low
enough, you could combine it with another piece of equipment, e.g. the
Required to be on a dedicated circuit if cord and plug connected.
Otherwise, like the dishwasher.
You could put this on the kitchen circuits (the small appliance branch
circuits, SABC); otherwise, like the dishwasher.
There's nothing wrong with putting a fridge on a gfci. If the fridge
trips the gfci (as an old one may), then it is leaking current to
ground, and should be replaced.
Under the 2005 NEC, you have the option of using a simplex receptacle
and a dedicated circuit to avoid the GFCI requirement. Under the
2008, GFCI is mandatory for an unfinished basement.
Since you list a laundry room below, this does not require a dedicated
circuit; if it is in the laundry room, plug it into the laundry
The NEC just requires 2 SABCs, with no limitations on the number of
outlets on each. Is this a local requirement?
Likely requires a dedicated circuit, although I'm not sure.
Like the dishwasher, as far as I know.
The dining room has to be on a SABC. So you could combine it with one
or more of the kitchen circuits. More common is to run a separate
SABC just for the dining room.
How you divide up the remainder of the house is up to you, the NEC
does not have a 1 circuit per X square feet requirement. Is there a
Space in the panel for a surge protector?
Lighting circuits and smoke alarms? Whether to wire those separately
to mix them with general use receptacles is a personal preference.
Any other fixed in place equipment?
If you modify a circuit, then you have to put in an AFCI breaker if
required. Under the 2005 NEC, it is just circuit with outlets in
bedrooms ("outlet" includes receptacles and any other boxes, like
smoke detectors). Under the 2008 NEC, the requirement is much broader
and you should check the details.
Why is OP doing a COMPLETE rewire?
For a lot less work and expense he may be able to selectively upgrade
kitchen and bath, replace main service and just run new circuits to
just wondering cause a complete gut and replace is hard work and very
disruptive, and better done if your gutting the home and say
On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:36:58 -0800 (PST), " email@example.com"
Perhaps he has ungrounded early romex, or early aluminum wire?
Or perhaps the wiring has proven to be inadequate, and the original
layout is so convoluted that just rewiring is so much simpler to
On Jan 10, 10:53 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Why you ask? All 3 of the reasons you mention.
1 Aluminum wiring.
Ends have snapped off in 50% of the locations I have touched, like
when changing the ceiling fixtures. One flickering utility light in
the basement turned out to have burned loose wire in the box. I have
also had breakers trip because the load wires attached to the breakers
had softened and worked loose from deformation.
SWMBO's 50,000 Watt hair dryer dims most of the upstairs lights when
powered on. House was built in 70s when nobody had computers,
monitors, printers, cell phones, etc.
Before I start I'll need to map the entire house outlet by outlet
because things that may be up to code make no sense. When the toaster
and coffee pot are on and someone trips the breaker by turning on the
microwave the basement lights also go out.
One calculation is at 3 watts per square foot which gives 1 circuit
(15A) per 600 sq. ft. But there are alternate calculations and some of
the required circuits may count.
As someone said, a 20A circuit for the bathroom(s).
Smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms are not a NEC requirement but
may well be required by state or local codes.
Generally in the 2008 NEC if a circuit does not require a GFCI it
requires AFCI protection. There is a list.
=============I have major doubts the OP has a realistic idea of the difficulty if
walls are not open. Or the amount of work involved.
The OP should have _at least one real good book_ on wiring based on the
NEC version that will be enforced. That book should have answered many
of the questions that were asked. And, for example, there were minimal
questions about where GFCIs are required. Or what rooms the kitchen
appliance circuits have to supply.
The OP had best make a floor plan, with all the electric indicated, and
run it past the inspector. There are *numerous* gotchas that are
possible. Like, with a "complete rewire" will receptacle spacing have to
meet the requirements for new construction. The attitude of the
inspector will make a huge difference in how smoothly the job will go.
If I was the inspector my attitude would not be very good unless the OP
has done a *lot* more research. The inspector does not have to tell you
how to do the work, and you may find out there is a problem when the
inspector tags it.
While you can get good answers to limited questions on this newsgroup,
this question is way to broad to give a very complete answer.
You may want to add a couple of 20 amp Edison circuits for the
kitchen. I have two double duplex circuits that are above the kitchen
counter for things like toasters, electric skillets, deep fryers.... A
third would sometimes be handy. Bathrooms can need more current than
you think. Two blow dryers going at once will pop a breaker. An outlet
inside a closet can come in handy. I use it to keep things like cell
phones and iPods recharged. My wireless router is there too. Another
closet has a vacuum cleaner plugged in and ready to go. If you
decorate for Xmas having outles handy for plugging in the tree and
such without having to drag out all the extension cords you can find
is really nice. Got a garage? having outlets just inside the doors is
very handy, mine had one in the middle of each wall. That location was
mostly useless. Think about your lifestyle, "where" may be more
important than "how many".
While Edison circuits would make the number of pulls less I plan on
staying away from them.
I don't know how common the floating common or 'hot' common problems
are but I don't need to take the chance. Lowes has 1,000' of 12/2 for
$260 so wire isn't that expensive.
Also the next guy might be very surprised to find 220v in a junction
box under the sink.
I'd worry more about the electricity usage than the square feet.
My house was wired by an idiot electrician. I have the living room,
two bathrooms and the master bedroom on ONE 15A circuit. It could
just about handle the six 60W lamps and the space heater in the
bathroom. Much more than that blew the breaker.
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