I've pulled V-8 engines & trannys with less in my younger days, I did
usually make provision to wedge a 2 X 4 or 4 X 4 in on either end
between the top board and the floor effectively creating an A. I will
say the rafters creaked a little with 500 + lbs hanging from them. Then
again they don't build houses now, like they did in the 50's
160 pounds? A chain hoist?!!!. A rope and two pulleys will move that
easily unless you are crippled somehow. Why dick around with a heavy
slow chain hoist? To be honest, I wouldn't even mess around with a
hoist at all to move such an item, a ramp and roll the sucker.
I think with a little added thought you can eliminate the part where
you have to move the truck for each keg. Hang a doodad from the
ceiling of the garage**, so that your rear truck window just hits it
when you are far enough backed in that the end of your hoist is just
beyond the edge of your tailgate. You can pull the keg onto the
tailgate or attach it when it is in the truck, whichever you plan to
do, and when you lift it up it will swing a little but shouldn't be
dangerous, and when it is beyond the tailgate (directly below the
hoist attaching point) you can lower it.
When you raise it, when it is higher than the truck be=d, push it in a
bit with one arm and lower with the other.
**They sell these stupid red, or red and green lights, to tell when
you are far enough into the garage. They also have one that uses
sonar, iirc. My mother just hung a doodad from a string so that it
hit the windshield when she was the right amount in. It cost nothing,
needed no batteries, never broke, and worked for a decade until she
moved out of the house. (She might have had to raise or lower it when
she got a different car, but in the case of her cars, which were about
the same size, I don't think so.)
My grandparents used either a ping-pong ball or a wiffle ball...can't
remember which for sure. I think it was a small wiffle ball, about the same
size as a golf ball, and it dangled from some string.
/ v \\ Scott Alfter (remove the obvious to send mail)
(IIGS( http://alfter.us/ Top-posting!
\\_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden >What's the most annoying thing on Usenet?
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My mother just used something little and light, the size of a thimble
iirc, heavy enough to hold the cotton string straight, and big enough
to be seen and for her to tell when it touched the window, (because it
stops getting closer), but not annoying if you walk into it when there
is no car in the garage.
A lot of the other devices, including the fancy expensive ones, can't
be seen until you're supposed to stop, or not at all. This one can
see from several feet away. Unfortunately I have no garage.
No. Go up in the attic with a piece of SuperStrut from Home Depot
electrical aisle. Lay it so it crosses the rafters. Use 1/2" threaded rod
and nuts to project a stud through the ceiling down into the garage so it
sticks out an inch or so. Use a coupling nut and 1/2" threaded eye to get
your attachment point.
I have lifted 800 lbs this way:
Stabbing lag screws into rafters weakens the rafters, and you risk pull-out
of the screws.
It can't slide more than the distance between two joists,
because the part that sticks down will jam up against
one. if it tries to slide the other way, you MIGHT
get enough rotation to let the beam drop through.
If this is a permanant installation, you want it
anchored to the top of the wall-plates.
Lay it crosswise with the C opening up. No attachment needed unless you
expect a lot of sideways forces. The 1/2" threaded rod goes vertically
down through the gypsum board ceiling, and lightly secures the assembly in
place. Run a nut and washer up to the bottom of the ceiling from below,
and in the attic you have a washer and nut on top, so the pair of nuts on
the rod are acting as a weakly tightened (a little more than finger-tight)
clamp that holds the strut down in the attic.
You weakly tighten so as to avoid cracking the gypsum board. Under load
the clamp loosens so you don't crack the gypsum board. If you start to see
a gap between the washer and ceiling, you know you have a load that's
starting to bend the joists. But in my applications I've lifted 500 to 800
lbs without even loosening the hand-tight clamping.
Geez, everyone sure is making it complicated to lift that 160 lb keg!
It's not like it's a 600 lb engine or something.
My suggestion: Tap the keg while it's still in the pickup, you're not
going to be drinking and driving anyway, are you?
This is a very good point. I hung an 80 lb kick bag by bolting
a piece of 4x4 between two joists and suspending from a heavy
duty hook. It took almost daily abuse for 9 years so much
abuse that the bag had to be replaced twice.
My only problem is that beer will get warm unless you're
holding a party.
Exactly. If there ever was a case of over-engineering, this is it.
160 lb keg does not need a hoist to get it out of the bed. One plank
and either drag or roll if it you are too weak to gently lower 160
pounds. If a hoist is wanted, one pulley on the ceiling and one on the
keg brings it down to 80 pound pull on a rope. I am surprised no-one
except you and I have mentioned the absurdity of setting up for a
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