What is it with you? I ran them all for 5 days simultaneously, stopping to put gas in once a day. Thats it; no load management, nothing. And I had spare capacity for a few lights, my computer, or the television. Furnaces just don't use much current.
Had the refrigerator and freezer chosen to start at the same time the generator would have stopped to prevent an overload, but it didn't happen and wasn't likely.
Hey, I didn't know you had a riding mower! That pretty much explains it. Sorry.
I have a Power Boss - Briggs and Stratton - 5500 running watts and 7500 peak. It will handle my refrigerator, two freezers, furnace, well and a few lights and TV or two. Don't know what your electrician did but my transfer box was just set up for the essentials I mentioned. Generator is noisy but has good motor and good generator unit. Cost half that of a Honda. My neighborhood gets noisy when power is out and everyone powers up their generator. Honda apparently has a lot of sound insulation and I read an amusing story in this group where mice nested in someones Honda generator and harmed the wiring.
Can use 10 gal. gas a day. I keep tank full and have two 5 gal cans. Stabil added to all gas an purchase date put on cans so I know when I should use up in lawnmower. Also found water in water heater is hot enough for shower after more than a day.
Frank
What's with me is I properly size the generator to the load and / or practice load management. I don't rely on fault protective devices to to cover for poor design and management.
Pete C.
Consider determining your actual load. Run whatever you want the generator to power for 15 minutes, turn off everything else, and look at your electric meter before and after the test. Multiply by 4 and you'll get the watt hours; then, assuming everything is 120 volts, your generator's amperage needs watt hours divided by 120. E.g., if you need to provide 3600 watt hours, 3600/120 = 30 amperes. Or more simply, 120 volts x 30 Amps = 3600VA.
Note that this ignores motor startup current which could stall a generator if it is running nearly full load. It also ignores Power Factor. But this is better than guessing the size of the generator you need.
Refrigerator compressors take a LOT of startup current.
Now days, a typical fridge compressor runs about 4.5 amps running (yes, I'm an appliance repairman, and I get to use an ammeter on refrigerator compressors now and again). Figure another hundred for the fans. Which is generous. But the start up current can be 15 amps or so.
The gas furnaces I've measured tend to run about 7 amps, can't remember the start up currents.
Propane and NG run at widely different pressures. And have different energy contents. I don't doubt that many generators have multi fuel ability, but you may need to change an orifice or make other adjustments to switch fuels.
A local propane tank for the generator sounds like an excellent idea.
Typically about the same four to five amps, much the same as the compressor.
Had a major electrical re-do of my house, and had the electrician install a generator connection. I believe they are called "generator interlock" systems. It is a standard setup, I can throw a switch in the basement, then plug a generator in outside the house to power the house in event of a power failure. CY: I'd be tempted to get at least 5,000 watts. Coleman makes em for about $500, but noisy as heck. A generator that size should put out
220 volts, which could be wired to your interlock. that would give you several conveniences. First, having the house powered. Second, having a five galon fuel tank on the generator is really nice. Such a device in quiet Honda would be really nice. Please also invest in at least one or two big huge chains and padlocks. Generators are very often stolen.(save safety warnings.. I know to put generator outside not near door or window, and I can't hook Gen up while still connected to municipal power supply due to lockout system on inside panel, and I know enough to not overload gen) CY: The interlock would prevent back feeding. Most generators have a circuit breaker. the factor to consider is also fuel. Every time you turn something on, you use more fuel. Will you have enough to make it through the power cut?
What should I look for in considering a generator. I am pretty much settled on Honda, as in my experience they are just head an shoulders above all others in reliability and noise. I am prepared to entertain opposing points of view, but I am willing to pay a little more for a good unit. CY: The couple experiences I've had with Honda convince me they are first rate equipment.
I don't need super-megawatts.. I will be happy to see that my home has heater, hot water heater (powered venilation unit) and a few lights and maybe a TV. I don't need to run the AC or electric stove. CY: If you figure probably 800 watts for a gas furnace, and maybe 100 for a power vented WH, then a couple more watts for lights and TV, you'd be well under 5000.
Could I get away with one of those tiny suitcase type units.. my concern is that they seem to only have standard AC plugs on them, not that special generator circular locking plug that goes into the outside outlet. CY: probably so. However, with the interlock you'd only power half the circuits in your house. It would be a guess and miss to power the correct side.
Personal experiences or tips? CY: I've got a Coleman 2200 watt. it has run my natural gas furnace a couple times during power cuts, and a couple friends furnaces. If you'e going out to help a friend, you'll need to know some electrical wiring. You'll also need an electric cord off a junk appliance to wire to the furnace wires. And a couple wire nuts. And extension cords.
Good online sources for info? CY: May wish to check and see what Honda has to read. Maybe also some PDF format owners manuals you can read.
Nearly all the packaged home standby gensets are NG/LP. Northern tool has several portably tri-fuel units as well so I'm thinking the fuel changeover issue has been pretty well resolved. I think the orifice thing only applies to regular burners.
Pete C.
The point was the KWH/Day is not in any way a measure of actual current draw for anything that doesn't run continuously.
Pete C.
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