I assumed (quite possibly wrongly) this was an attached/
integral garage. In that case, I think it's reasonable to
treat the garage *like* living space from a fire perspective.
And I'm quite sure unprotected styrofoam would not be
code compliant in a living area. Also, a significant number
of home fires do start in attached garages.
However, if this garage is a separate structure, then there
probably isn't much of a fire safety issue. On the other
hand, I'm not sure insulating the door is going to help
much if the walls/roof are uninsulated.
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
On 11/20/2013 10:23 AM, email@example.com wrote:
I've always just used a super sharp knife or razor blade. For something
as thick as 2" that might not work well though, as knives with
disposable blades are not common that large. Maybe get an old kitchen
knife from Salvation Army and just sharpen the snot out of it before
use? (assuming you have a good knife sharpening system) You'll still
make a little mess as you'll still get those little balls of styrofoam
all over the place unless your sharpening skills are better than mine.
Keep in mind that you will need to bevel the edges of the panels as well
unless this is an old school one piece door. Might be easier to accept
less insulation and use thinner panels.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
Better yet, buy one of these...
And ask them to throw in one of these...
Most doors I see are not hollow, of the uninsulated variety, made from
I've stapled double sided reflective polyethylene 1/4 inch flexible stuff
to garage doors, leaving air gaps on the slots.
Styrofoam has less R value than other foam sheeting. Also harder to cut.
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