I have a major problem, first the concrete slab that was poured for my new
garage has gone to shit because of a bad batch of concrete. This is an
argument and moan for another day.
Here's my main beef that I need expert advice only, please I do not want
opinions . I need solid proof, so if you can send me to a site or show me an
engineered diagram it would be greatly, greatly appreciated.
I took a contractor to a friends garage that measures 24'across x 26 long,
the garage has a Gambrel Roof Truss which allows a 15' wide x 26 long room
upstairs with an 8ft ceiling. I told the contractor that this is exactly
what I want, the only difference was I wanted my garage to be 26' x 26'
He viewed the garage and said that he seen enough and knew exactly what I
Since then, the roof trusses are now out in my yard and the space allowed
for a upstairs room is only 12' x 26', The contractor told me the bigger you
go with the garage, the room upstairs has to be smaller. I could almost
believe this but the gambrel truss is not even the same design even though
it has 2x 6 material where as my friends had only 2x 4's . Here's the
question > Can it be possibel to have a 15' room upstairs, 8' ft ceilings
top and bottom floors using a Gambrel (barn style) truss on a 26' wide
garge. I know this contractor is waltzing me around and I need proof that he
Thanks in advance for all help
Mistake number one, you did not review the plans.
Mistake number two, relying on someone else's project to base your decisions
Mistake number three, not providing written specifications on what you want
and having the contractor committ to them.
Cure number one: Contact the truss maker (if the manufacturer is not marked
on the trusses, get the name from your contractor) to see what their
engineers can make according to their designs.
Cure number two: Stop all work and correct the above mistakes before
proceeding any further.
Only opinions and experiences here. Even a bonified expert is not proof
if it comes from the Internet.
Every job is different and that's why plans must be approved by a PE
before you can get a permit.
You need to go to a PE for "proof". You should already have that because
your plan has the stamp of a Professional Engineer. That's how you got
the building permit.
You "can" do anything. As long as it's engineered correctly. I'd
guess the guy spec'd the roof trusses wrong. Did you have any sort of
spec sheet as part of your "contract" with him? Doesn't have to be a
big production, just a page or two with the highlights like dimensions
in it. If not then you might be in a tight spot. Even with it's
going to be hard to get him to abandon that much money in the
trusses. He might decide it's better to just walk away from the whole
job. So you'll have to decide where you want to go with it from
here. Another option might be to find someone to buy those trusses on
craig's list. You'll take a loss though.
I'm not a huge fan of the manufactured roof trusses for 2nd story
space so I went with manufactured floor joists and stick built roof in
my garage project. The downside is that they are 22" tall and with a
10' garage ceiling that makes my 2nd story floor pretty far above
grade. The plus side is that my 2nd story is floored all the way to
the outside dimensions and I can do anything I want with the space
cause there is nothing load bearing in it.
I've got my own contractor dilemma though. My guy has dropped off the
face of the earth for 2 months now. Fortunately I've only paid him
for work done, not work "to be done". But I still need some grading
finished plus a few other odds and ends and I don't have the equipment
for that so I'd just as soon he show back up. Without a rollback it's
expensive to rent equipment.
Why didn't you say so? This should help clarify things for you:
*Rico thanks for that link. I will probably use it myself sometime. I'm
just wondering if the OP even bothered with permits and inspections and
other pesky things like consulting an architect.
In this case I think the punishment may fit the crime.
There is not some hard rule about the span of your upper floor. It's
whatever an engineer designs and certifies for the trusses. No matter
what arrangement you have with the guy building it, he went to a truss
manufacturer for the trusses. They're the ones on the hook for
certifying that the trusses meet whatever dead and live loads are
required. They probably had a number of gambrel trusses engineered up
already. Can't say if they had one that had a wider upper story space
or not. The company name is probably on the trusses or on some
paperwork with the trusses. You could call them and ask if they have
a collection of gambrel truss designs ready to go. Bottom line you
could have a wider 2nd story floor. Might have been cheaper for the
guy to get these with 12' space instead of an 15' space. Or maybe he
just screwed up.
Doesn't change where you are. If the trusses are sitting on your lot
then you have limited choices.
If you have an agreement with the builder that covers the basic specs
including a 15' wide 2nd story, and you both signed it, and you have
not paid him or the truss company then you could tell him to make it
right or pack up and leave.
If you have already given him money that changes things a lot. While
you might be in the right legally doing something about it is a whole
nother kettle of fish. Getting something out of a small contractor
via small claims court is a total pain in the ass. After considerable
effort you may get a judgement against him. But that just means you
won in court. You have to follow up with trying to collect it. Often
that is just as much if not more work than getting the judgement.
Where do you stand with this guy? Got any sort of agreement in
writing? Have you paid him anything yet? How much other work has he
done? You mentioned the concrete problems, is that fixed? Or is this
guy on the hook to jackhammer that out still? Concrete company
This will really get some of your naysayers riled I suspect, but if
you want to go totally off the reservation you might be able to modify
the trusses you have to get the extra 3'. But only if you're building
without getting inspections. I built some roof trusses from scratch
for an addition once. I laid them out on the driveway and used
squares of osb, construction adhesive, and deck screws in place of the
metal plates. They've been up 10 years now. But these were for a
roof, not a floor. With a floor the loads are a whole lot bigger.
That partly why I don't like engineered trusses that include a floor.
A diagram will be 150$ in advance, your concrete needs to be removed
and replaced before you screw up anything else as you watch your
trusses rot in the mud this winter, Merry Christmas, come back soon.
Here's some more advice to you......, remove the stucco from your nose and
in the future, don't go around with it stuck up in the air. You won't have
to take abuse when someone asks a specific question on this so called
help/advice group, answer it or ignore it, plain and simple. Drop the
bullshit about your 50 years of construction experience and what your advice
Save the drama for your mama
"EXT" < wrote in message
The forwman who ordered the trusses was very inexperienced and didn't know
the difference between one and the other. He knew less about proper angles
and roof pitch thats how he got caught in a lie and got himself fired.
What you describe sounds more like Mansard than Gambrel trusses. Your
contractor may be right if this is the case. Grambrel trusses may have
given you nearly thefull width of the garage.
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