In my basement I have a length of 3/4 copper hot water heat pipe that
is dead in the way of a new dryer vent hard tube path. When I traced
both ends of the 3/4" pipe it appears that the circuit simply makes
about a 4' U from one baseboard radiator to another. Why the
installer did this I'm sure he doesn't even know. But somehow I've
got to reroute it or better yet go from one radiator to the other in a
rather straight line.
The pipes come through the floor and immediate have elbows. I'd like
to use 3/4 sharkbite elbows but because the new line needs to run
under the joists I was wondering if anyone is aware of any 3/4 braided
ss hose that I can connect between one elbow and the other. That
would make a direct 4' connection from one under the joists to the
I want to NOT have to solder as I have lots of pvc and wood in that
area. So, any suggestions as to how I can accomplish this, what ever
way, would be greatly apprecated.
Check to see if that 4 foot wide "U" goes across a doorway or hallway on
the floor plan directly above that "U".
You can use 3/4 inch sharkbite fittings for this, but I've never heard
of a flexible supply hose being allowed to stand in for a pipe in a hot
water heating system.
Now, if this is a house with only one thermostat, then you almost
certainly have gate valves on all but the longest radiator loop. These
gate valves are called "balancing valves", and their function is to
pinch off the flow through the shortest straightest radiator loops to
force more water through the longer and more tortuous radiator loops,
thereby promoting uniform heating of the house.
If you put another coupla bends in that radiator loop, it's going to
offer more resistance to water flow through it, and so you'll have to
rebalance the flow of heating water through all of the radiator loops.
This would involve closing the balancing valves just a bit on the
shorter straighter loops to force more water through the loop that you
added the elbows to.
I agree. I've soldered in some pretty tight spaces too, but when the OP
"I want to NOT have to solder as I have lots of pvc and wood in that
Then he can see his situation better than we can, and so it's prudent to
leave soldering off the table.
So if I hear you correctly Pex can be used for hot water heating feed
pipes? If so then I can create a loop of Pex but avoid the area that
is causing issues now. That being the case, tomorrow will be Pex
BTW - the pipe to be moved is the upper of four layers of copper and
pvc pipe so for me even cutting the copper out is going to be
Yes, 3/4" pex will do the job. I have a section of pex replacing a
problem copper line I had originally. Sharkbite fillings are simple
to use and hold on both the copper and the pex.
Pex is used in a lot of radiant heat applications. When we renovated
our offices, the heating contractor used about 100' of pex for the
baseboard heat connections.
I think there is a special type of PEX that is supposed to be used for
heating systems. It is called "oxygen barrier PEX" -- there are different
types. The difference between oxygen barrier PEX and regular PEX is that
the oxygen barrier PEX has a special barrier to keep oxygen from being able
to diffuse into the system. When oxygen gets into a closed heating system,
it can cause corrosion.
I don't know if it will really matter when all you are doing is putting in a
4 foot section of PEX. And, I don't know if they sell short lengths of
oxygen barrier PEX like they do regular PEX.
Plus, this is just based on what I have read since I don't have any direct
experience with this. Maybe others here will know for sure if what you
should be using is oxygen barrier PEX.
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