I take a drill and a 7/8 inch bit and rotate the shaft. Starts the mower in
seconds. No pulling your guts out, no heart attack, no sweat. Here's how I do
I have 3 old junk Murray mowers (old red painted Walmart stuff). I take the
shrouding and all the safety oriented crap off them. I mainly just take my
angle-grinder and cut away all that crap, like taking a can opener to a tin
can. This exposes the shaft end which is on top of the push lawnmower. It is a
square, nut looking deal --the top of the shaft. It fits a 7/8 inch socket.
Now, I take a drill bit that will "chuck into" the other end of that socket. I
use a half-inch spade bit that fits fairly snugly in there. All I'm trying to
do is to get something to allow the drill to turn that socket that I put on the
square shaft. I then hit the primer (rubber bulb dealie) on the lawn mower,
make sure it's in the "run" setting. I put on my earplugs, I use the ear
protector deals that go all the way over my ears --like they use for shooting
guns. Then I press the drill ON button and let er rip. Hold the drill FIRMLY so
it won't pop out of your hands. The lawnmower motor turns...I'd say about 200
RPMs. And very soon she STARTS. Usually, it immediately pops that socket off,
onto the ground. Sometimes I smack that socket off the (running mower) shaft,
with the drill spade bit. Don't be stupid and try to grab it with your hand, to
take it off the mower.
I usually run the mower till it's outta gas, or if the "kill" button still
works, I shut it off with that. It makes the job a little more fun this way.
You think back to all those years (each year...getting older and fatter and
more exasperated) when you wasted time tuning up the mower and changing plugs
to try and get it to start, fiddling with all those idiot levers, pulling your
guts out in the sun, it still didn't start, refiddling with the settings and
trying and trying. Those days are DONE. Just stand there a few seconds or even
a minute or two with your drill doing all the work for you, as your old balky
mower finally gives in and starts...time after time. The EASY way.
I've got an old Tecumseh with an exposed bolt on the
flywheel. I've got a 3 inch socket extension (sawed off the
bulky end) and I use a deep socket in the right size, and a
half inch drill on low speed.
Works like a champ.
yea and one day the socket and drill wont release then WHAM it will spin
and break your hand, rip out the cord, you slip and your foot goes under
the mower cutting your toes off, your shirt gets caught in the flywheel
wrapping itself in till it shreds your hand and breaks your arm ,,
finaly stopping. and it throws your drill hits you breaking your knee
cap, and ruins your fancy 10$ B&D drill ., but what do you say to
someone that has 3 murray junks. go get a 4th.
or you could simply drain the carb at the end of each year and have a mower
that works properly... guarantee it will take less time than all the
fighting you go through. sorry you never learned this....
ive got a nice rear bag mower i pulled out of a junk pile for free because
someone like you owned it before. cleaned the carb the first year, drained
it every year, still working 6 years later. starts first pull every time.
Same here. Mower bought back in the early 80s. Smokes like a b...
when first fired up but always goes with one pull, even first time out
of the shed in teh spring. Have used it so much that I have worn the
rubber off the drive wheels twice.
They used to sell gadgets for doing just that. IIRC they had a ratchet
or something similar to help avoid accidents.
Haven't seen ads for them in years though.
As others have already pointed out, a properly tuned engine usually
starts with just one or two pulls.
Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"My luck is so bad that if I bought a cemetery, people would stop dying."
My mower is always hard to start in the spring, even if I ran it dry
last fall. This year I bought 1/2 gallon of premium gasoline instead of
regular for the first tank and it's amazing how much easier it started.
I think it started on the second pull and I didn't have to clean the
sparkplug or anything.
I think over the winter, the tablespoon or 2 of gas that's still in the
tank gets gummy and drags the octane down of the first tank of fresh gas
you use. Premium has higher octane to begin with, and might have more
detergents and stuff to dissolve deposits in the carburator jets.
That's my theory anyway.
I'm gonna take the carburator off that God-forsaken Mantis tiller and
soak it in a jar of premium gasoline and see if it helps...
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