On Thursday, January 2, 2014 at 7:44:01 PM UTC-6, Bob wrote:
Bob ... You are a genius. How you determined that the problem was the hose
filling up with water is beyond me. I disconnected the hose which had a sli
ght "belly" in it, drained a half pint of liquid, shortened the length of t
he hose, and reconnected it... making sure it was on a continuous slant dow
nhill the entire length. Furnace worked like a charm !
I was curious why the furnace worked all last winter but I figure it was in
itially installed in the dead of last winter when there was low humidity. t
he condensation never built up until I started it up this year. Thanks aga
Our furnace is Carrier 96% model. No hose. Rigid PVC small dia.
pipes connected to AC evaporator pan drain then straight down to
drain in the basement floor. No such problem either on AC or
furnce. I bet the problem will recur unless you make sure same
standing water problem happens.
replying to bubbabubbs, ChuckE wrote:
Thanks for your posting. I was experiencing the same thing - the gas burners
would not kick on. This was just a few hours after they had done their annual
service check. Service came back out and he first said it must be the thermostat
since the furnace was working when he left. He then determined it must be the
gas line. Then the gas valve. Finally he got on the phone with his head
technician. He began checking everything he had already done. I step inside the
house to warm up and I googled and found your experience. I went back outside
and the technician, still on the phone, was discussing going through all the
wiring to find the problem. I reached up and gently lifted the hose and it began
to drain. The tech was heading back to his truck for more tools when I flipped
on the power switch and the furnace kicked on. It was so funny when I yelled
back to the tech that I had fixed the furnace. He hung up the phone and came to
see what I was talking about. In the end the tech thanked me and said I saved
him a lot of time and trouble pulling the wiring apart to test. He then said he
learned something today. He learned that he should google things first. He did
get the hose adjusted so it drains properly and all is well.
On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 12:44:07 AM UTC-5, ChuckE wrote:
The root cause of this problem is very likely that it was not installed
correctly. Gas furnaces are typically shipped so that the venting and
draining can be done on either side. So the hoses are shipped longer,
so that if needed, it can be switched to the other side. I think my
hose was unattached with instructions to cut it to the required length.
I bet some installers don't cut it, or don't route it correctly, etc.
In your case, the service guy probably moved it while he was doing his
other work, creating a situation where it won't drain. And I'd say
his problem isn't that he needed the internet, it's that he doesn't
understand the basic operation and how to diagnose. Doesn't that
furnace have blinking LEDs and codes on the door to show what the problem is?
On Thu, 2 Jan 2014 20:41:13 -0800 (PST), " email@example.com"
Nope - it just threw the pressure balance off and one of the safety
"sail switches" would not turn off or on - preventing the unit from
On 1/3/2014 8:01 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I had an Amana high efficiency unit in my previous house and it had a
similar problem. Because the combustion air on this model is from
inside the house (basement), it would pick up any dust, etc. in the air.
This particulate would then form what I referred to as slime balls
inside the drain tubes. There were 2 drains, one from the combustion
blower and one from the secondary heat exchanger. Usually the one from
the blower would clog. Initially it would start and run for a really
long time before combustion. Apparently, it would have to slug enough
water away from the blades in order to get enough negative pressure to
then allow the gas valve to open and start. If you let it go for a long
time, eventually, it would never open the gas valve; only the combustion
blower would run. I found that, because of the basement layout, when
the furnace was installed, I had to change the side where the drain was
located. So, there was a small coupling in the drain line. The line
was PVC with a short rubber hose on each end. Apparently, the roughness
inside the solid pipe, where the coupling was located, was enough to
catch the 'slime balls' and would build up until the line was clogged.
I changed out the drain line to a single clear plastic line. Now you
can actually see if a clog was forming. But, because there was no
roughness inside, it never did. However, I would periodically take out
the drains and clean any deposites with a small bottle brush and lots of
What about condensate drain?
If in lpock out mode, it takes I think 2 hpours
before you can start the unit again. You can rest the unit
by turning power on/off. Control board has test point to ground to
test the unit. Tried or cleaned flame sensor?
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