My daughter wants to replace the built-in dishwasher in her condo. The plug-in outlet is behind the dishwasher. Should that outlet be upgraded to a GFCI or not? From what I understand, the current NEC requires all dishwashers to have a GFCI. Yet, all GFCI outlets are supposed to be readily accessible for testing or reset purposes. I'm confused.
Yes, to the GFCI.
Put it somewhere upstream of the outlet behind the dishwasher. The outlets around the sink need to be GFCI anyhow. Do one of those feed the dishwasher outlet? Or put a GFCI breaker in the breaker box feeding the kitchen outlets if that will satisfy the requirement.
Put in a GFCI breaker - always accessible. Easy to test and reset.
Hopefully there is nothing else on the circuit that can cause nuisance trips or shouldn't be on a GFCI.
A lot will depend on how it is wired. As often as not the dish washer is on 2 sides of a <shared neutral> multiwire circuit with the other half feeding the disposal. You can get two pole 120/240 GFCIs but they are spendy. OTOH if you can fish a wire up to the wall behind the counter top you could put a dead front GFCI there. (4 wire +g Romex or smurf tube with THHN in it) Box fill might be an issue but since it is under the sink and out of sight you could put a ring on it or use a surface raceway (wiremold) box on it. That might actually make the fishing easier.
Thanks for the suggestions but she isn't about to do any of the above that would require an electrician. She is handy, but not that handy. The dishwasher is on a separate circuit from the disposal. Additional info: apparently the outlet was not holding the plug securely and arcing melted the plug and outlet causing the dishwasher to stop running. Her choice is to install a new regular outlet or a GFCI. It sounds like the GFCI would be safer but it can't be tested or easily reset without pulling out the dishwasher.
By now you have probably figured it out. If you want GFCI just change the breaker and use a standard outlet. Pulling it out for a reset is not so good.
OTOH, if it was low enough you can take the bottom panel and lay on the floor with a stick to reset it.
The GFCI breaker is the right thing to do if you are sure this is not a multiwire circuit. Otherwise Make sure the grounding is good and just put a regular receptacle in there.
Up to her, but "I" would be putting in a spec grade 20 amp receptacle
- the best she can get - and install a GFCI breaker. You say the disposal and the dishwasher are on separate circuits. But on the same duplex outlet?? If so, a "split" or "edison circuit. If so, a GFCI outlet is NOT possible. The only way to get gfci protection is a gfci plug/cord assembly on the dishwasher or a 2 pole (240 volt) breaker in the panel. Depending on the panel that can be either simple or EXPENSIVE. Replacing the outlet requires removing the jumper link between the 2 brass (dark) (live) screws on the outlet - one circuit is red, the other black - with shared white(neutral) and safety ground (bare or green)
If you can tell me what breaker panel she has I can give you a better idea what is required to replace the breaker - generally no more challenging than replacing the outlet (and often simpler - definitely a lot more space to work!!!! - and a better working position (standing up instead of head down, ass up, under the cupboard!!!)
Either way, the outlet HAS to be replaced - and if as described, only ONE option for GFCI protection (other than to ignore it and leasve as-is) that does not require modification of the dishwasher.
After seeing how to replace a breaker I decided a standard outlet with a GFCI breaker is the way to go. The panel is a Square D "Homeline Load Center, cat # HOMC 12UC, Series S01, Type 1 Enclosure." The dishwasher is on its own 15 amp circuit. However, I'm concerned that there doesn't seem to be a main breaker. The punch-out panel in the box where the main would be is not punched out. I suspect the main is in the basement? This is a condo building of about 20 units. Shouldn't there be a main shutoff in each unit? Hopefully, these pics will come through:
In the USA the square D CFCI is only $48 and it is a 15 minute jib to install (at the worst) and installation on a live panel is relatively safe if you know ANYTHING about electricity. Up here in Canada they are about twice as expensive.
In a condo building your disconnect will be in a common area, usually centrally located on the first floor. Just be sure you are turning off the right one so you are not getting your neighbor's. Ask around, someone knows where it is. In the US it is illegal to prevent you from getting to that disconnect. The maintenance man will have the key if it is locked. (it shouldn't be) OTOH A kind word and maybe a small gift could have him swapping that breaker for you too ;-)
"Relatively safe"
Relative to what?
Handling snakes? ;-) In either case, if you don't know what you are doing you can get bit.
Or, more on topic, it's relatively safer than this:
They did the visual inspection of the 230kv line behind my house with a drone.
The way NFPA 70A is going, you will need arc flash PPE to work on
120/240v.
The man in the suit is because at those voltages the power arcs off the skin into the air to a small amout. The suit is made of some kind of conductive material.
AT work we started the Arx/flash protection before I left. Had to wear something like an overcoat and helment with a face shield and gloves for some work on the 480p volt 3 phase units. Hard to read a moter in the low lighting in some areas and thrugh the tinted face shield.
Funny how they rated things. We had a motor control center that was way away from the main reducing station and it was too much for the calculated arc/flash that the power had to be shut off at the reducing station. As this was not practical, some fudge factor was applied to it.
Clare, you wrote "CFCI." Did you mean GFCI? At Home Depot I see listed GFCI, CAFCI, and AFCI. Are we correct in using a GFCI?
Yes, GFCI. AFCI is arc fault. CAFCI is combination arc faulr
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.