Like everyone else said, start the job by removing everything on the
floor except the tub. That includes the toilet. Unscrew the toilet
flange and see if you have enough slack to raise it about 3/4" above
the floor. If you do good. Otherwise you will need a flange
extender. Cover the floor with 1/2" backer board. Use as big a
pieces as you can. Motar it down and screw it every 6 to 8 inches in
all directions. Let that dry for 24 hours without wandering aorund on
it. If you are able to get the toilet flange to lift, run the backer
board under it. When you tile try to get the tile under the flange as
well if you can. Before the tile sets temporarily put the toilet down
and make sur ethe toilet sits flat. I use a concrete/glass drill bit
to drill holes for the flange screws. You just need holes through the
tile, not the backer board.
I finaly had to replace a 40 yr old toilet at cottage. Big crack
developed in tank. I really dreaded doing this as I had never done befor.
Old toilet came up easy, bolts were rusted & they fell off. I cleaned
flange, stuck a wax ring on new toilet & dropped it back on. It was so
easy I just replaced a toilet at house.This was a bit harder because I
had to cut bolts but after that it was easy also. This summer I'm going
to tile cottage bathroom floor. I'm beginning to feel like a pro pulling
& replacing toilets.
On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 15:25:44 -0600, " firstname.lastname@example.org"
the big problem i had with my basement toilet was it was elevated
about 1/2 inch above the floor with no shims. this cracked the closet
bolt holes and i couldnt get a repair flange to fit under the flange
on the concrete floor.
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