Garage Electrical Install Questions

[<kjpro]

Yeah, so when your garage door opener blows the circuit, you&#39;ll have no lights.

That&#39;s really planning ahead!

[<kjpro]

It&#39;s on that page they left out... :-)

[<kjpro]

Perhaps if one circuit blows or needs repair, you still have lighting???

[Doug Miller]

Sharp edges are actually more of an issue with EMT than they are with masonry; make sure you use a threaded adapter and a plastic bushing at each end of the conduit to protect the cable.

Star drill and a three-pound hand sledge... BTDT. Takes a while, but it does work, and the good news is you only have to do it once.

[<kjpro]

Diamond tipped core bits work better and take a lot less energy. :-)

[jJim McLaughlin]

IMHO, by the time you notch the 2 x 2 to clear the Romex you might as well not have any wood.

If you ever want to sheet rock out that wall, the 2" x 2" isn&#39;t practical.

[Kevin Dressel]

I was thinking about this today some more. If I go with the subpanel idea (and the more I think about it, the more I like it...if for no other reason than convenience), I may have to go the 2x4 approach anyway. I&#39;ll just have to come up with a way to make the doorway look less hallway-ish... :->

Thanks, Kevin

[Chris Lewis]

According to Kevin Dressel :

There&#39;s a good chance that the inspector will allow you to run bare romex along the underside of the trusses. _Especially_ if you intend to drywall the ceiling. In my case, I had 1x3 lath installed for the ceiling. The inspector said I could run ordinary romex perpendicular to the trusses stapled to the truss bottoms. I only needed to put a chunk of lath on top of the existing lath whenever the wire crossed a line of lath (when going parallel to the trusses) so that the lath face-to-wire distance was > 1 1/4"). The existing lath was deemed to be adequate mechanical protection from being hit from below even before the drywall is installed (if ever ;-).

I think you&#39;d be better off using at _least_ 2x3. Especially if you want to insulate.

That&#39;s probably best.

Drilling trusses is a no-no. Best to find an alternate.

One is enough, make sure it&#39;s more than big enough.

[It can get stickier if it was for more than a foot or so.]

Note that all wall penetrations have to be well sealed. Including cable holes.

Electrical code says 12" minimum separation when run parallel, and cross only at 90% angles for low voltage wiring. You&#39;re not likely to see an interference problem even if you do violate that _except_ possibly with the sensors. You might be able to minimize that if each pair of wires is twisted. Better to avoid it.

[jJim McLaughlin]

Really?

How often do garage door openers blow a circuit?

But if one does blow, you use a drop light from the wall outlets and to do a repar or a disconnect from the ighting circui, and you actualy have power from the wall outets to run tools that might be necessay to do a repair.

You put the openers on the lighing circuit because they are low current draws with only intermuittant use, unlike the freezer, the bench tools, the full size tools, etc., which eventually end up in the garage.

It is planning ahead.

But you are such an antagonistic, obnoxious jerk, that never ocurred to you, did it.

[<kjpro]

All it takes is once, Asshole!

Disconnect it, you still have no lighting... without using extension cords, Asshole!

Low current doesn&#39;t account for the possibility of a tripped circuit!

What a complete, idiot!