Furnace not igniting (Comfortmaker RPJ II - electronic igniter)

Oct 28, 2006 Last reply: 5 years ago 31 Replies

I have a Comfortmaker RPJ II gas furnace with an electronic igniter (no standing pilot light). The furnace and the fan come on when signaled by the thermostat but the furnace does not light. No flames come out of the burners. I've tested this with two different thermostats thinking our old thermostat was not turning on the furnace. But you can hear it come on. Any ideas what else would keep the burners from lighting/ not igniting? or what the problem may be? There is no smell of gas. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.



You need a new thermostat. You just got a bad one. Bubba

Hi, If it's electronic ignitor(Piezo electric) You can hear it when it's activated. Zap, zap, click, click kinda sound. If you don't hear it then ignitor module could e bad. There are many things which can malfunction. What is trouble code?

when was the last time you had it checked and serviced??

Piezo electric ignition in a gas furnace???? Did you know you have to push the button every time it calls for heat? I found some replacements for you.

formatting link

The model # of the furnace is GNJ050N12D1. I don't hear the zap, click sound which used to come before the sound of flames. A previous post mentioned a trouble code? Where can I check that? I don't think it's the thermostat. I replaced my old one thinking that was the problem. But with the new thermostat the exact same thing happens: the furnace and fan come on, but the furnace doesn't ignite.

Gas filter clogged.

Gas injector needs resetting.

Gas controller needs calibration.

etc.

Did you polarize the thermostat when you installed it? Comfortmaker needs the thermostat polarized and sync'ed with the controller board before it will work correctly.

Thanks for the reply. Can you tell me how to polarize and sync the thermostat or is special equipment required?

Hi, He is trolling. Trouble code is blinking LED thru small glass window. Count the blinks to come up with a code. Like ... . will be 31. Either you have a manual or a sheet with list of code is on the cover panel usually.

I didn't see any LED signals. There isn't a list of codes anywhere on the furnace either. After more trouble shooting I'm thinking it's the igniter. Usually the first thing you hear is the click-zap sound of the electric igniter. That no longer happens. Can a non-professional like me replace this part or try to service it?

Hi, If you can see if the module is getting power when it needs to activate. If it gets proper power and nothing happens(no sparksO, then module is a suspect. Problem is the module like that is often non-returnable once you buy it. So unless absolutely sure, it's a gamble. But it's known to fail.

Hi, It could be main control logic board as well.(the part which controls the ignitor-probably a relay(mechanical or solid state)

It could also be one of the many safeties that is keeping the furnace from firing. Sure you don't want to call a tech and get it properly checked and serviced??

Tony might be guessing since he seems to be mentioning every part on your furnace. Do what Oscar says and try polarizing your thermostat. Get a small jumper wire and with power applied to your furnace, briefly jumper the R & C terminals together at the furnace 7 times. Bubba

Hey meathead--you're not in the HVAC group. Your crap doesn't fit here--save it for the sink hole you like to live in. MLD

Polarizing requires a Modulating Current meter. Many VOM have them now, they call em VOMM, for Volt Ohm Modulating Meter. Sure sounds like your low voltage moduator might be out of synch with the circuit board. I remember the days when you had to manually synch the modulator every time you serviced a unit. That could take as long as an hour, if you had to go through the six or seven cycles of bootup which were required to fine tune the synch.

I think Oscar has a more up to date manual than mine, but some new furnace autosynch. Just turn the power switch off for half an hour, and make sure the case of the furnace is properly grounded to drain off the high impedance farrady charge. Of course, Os will provide the specific details, being a helpful fellow as he is.

As Steve reminds you, there are many reasons why a furnace would fail to fire. If you just go replacing parts, it could easily cost more than having the repair guy out.

You tried thermostat, and that didn't help. The next part(s) you replace may be both expensive and unnecessary. At this point in time, best to call the repairman. Before the weather gets colder, and the rate schedule goes from "fall" to "winter".

Ah, the art of internet diagnosis. The answer in general terms is that people who can do something just go ahead and do it. The fact you're asking tells us that it's beyond your skill level.

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required