Hi Tom,
I've never tried this, but read that you can remove old tree stumps by burning them out with diesel.
Hi Tom,
I've never tried this, but read that you can remove old tree stumps by burning them out with diesel.
I have used the following method successfully several times: Some of the devices mentioned are home-built.
Yes, and the explosion can be explained too. All radios made during the last 31 years come with a small M/AM device inside. On receipt of the proper signal, the force field is dropped. This is a part of the
1974 US terrorism act.I have used this very successfully in the past with posts that are NOT set in concrete . Get a "T" shaped wine cork puller. Twist the puller into the stump of the old post. move back/forth and left/right to loosen it a bit and then use steady upward pulling to remove the old broken post.
Assuming that the submerged post base can be removed, what kind of post will replace it? Maybe a galvanized metal post with a bit of mortar or concrete to hold it?
Is this a corner post or gate post with additional loads on it or is it just a line post that must resist wind forces against the fence panels?
How about using an eye-bolt with 12" length and gluing it into one of those holes you have drilled? Wait a day and pull it out. A 20' log chain wrapped over a car rim and attached to a trailer hitch would provide substantial vertical force.
I have done this a few times when I wanted to reuse a concrete footing. What I found worked best was to get a 3" saw tooth bit (e.g. 06J01.48 from leevalley.com) and drill out the core of the post. The 3" bit allows you to stay within the post if you start slightly off center or end up slightly off plumb; you don't want to hit the concrete as that will quickly dull the bit. Getting the bit started is the most difficult part, since the broken end of the post is probably not flat.
Once you've drilled out the core of the post, use a long pry bar with a flat chisel end to split the remainder of the post at the 4 places it is thinnest. Then you can remove each of the remaining quarters by prying it into the 3" hole and then pulling it out.
Cheers, Wayne
Many thanks for all your useful ideas, I shall be busy this weekend drilling and setting fire to things then!
Regards
Tom
Presumably, the owners will not allow outdoor awnings either. Or indoor shutters. So, as a renter your best option is in draperies lined with a light color, kept drawn.
Banty
Wayne, Thanks for the idea. I already have a 2-9/16 self-feeding bit such as plumbers use to cut holes in framing for gas and water lines. Already have the Hole-Hawg drill to power it too. Just need an extension since these bits don't have a very long shank to them. Now if that big drill doesn't slap me silly the first time the bit hangs up, have that hole drilled in no time at all.
Just one little "cautionary" note: I, too, had a Hole-Hawg pistol grip with right angle attachment. I, too, used the self feeding bit to drill 3-1/4" holes for plumbing runs in my basement. After a LONG day of drilling, cutting and gluing, I was about finished. However, I was also darned tired. When I drilled a hole and pulled the bit out, the drill was still coasting down. Holding it by the pistol grip, I let it swing down alongside my right leg, as I had done a few hundred times that day. This time, however, the augur point hit me squarely on the right knee and did just, precisely, what Mr. Greenlee intended when he made the bit. It dug in and kept digging, dragging the cutter along with it.
It went in full depth and the cutter also did a pretty decent job on my leg.
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