Electrical box

Instead of a drill you're probably going to want to use an easy-out to attempt to back the screw out. You can also drill out the hole and replace the screw with a bigger one.

tom snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote the following:

I am assuming (perhaps wrongly) that this is a metal outlet box? You can buy a bent-nose pair of needle nose pliers (I have a pair). It will allow you to get a better grip on the screw.

I don't see how he can use an easy out on a screw that small. It;s not a 1/4 bolt. If there is enough screw on the far side, willshak's suggestion of using the bent type of needle nose pliars sounds good. Also, if there is enough on the front side to try to get a grip on, I'd use something more like a small pair of lineman type pliers that have small teeth on them to try to get it, rather than needle nose which are smooth.

You talking the cover plate mount hole or the grounding screw, just to be certain? If the latter, just drill a new hole and go on...

If the former 'tis a pita. If it took me more than 10 minutes fooling with it I'd probably just replace the box and go on.

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If you have the bent nose pliers, try to run it "in" until it goes out the back side. There is more meat on the inside to grab. If you do bugger up the threads or drill it out so bad another screw won't bite you can get a "U" shaped speed nut that slips over the ear to create a new thread.

You have to drill a hole in the screw to fit the easy out into don't you know?

Is the bottom screw that holds the receptacle to to box. The issue with replacing the box is having to fix the drywall that I'd have to cut to get the box out ... trying to avoid going that route if at all possible.

willshak wrote the following:

...and putting a new box in.

No, the jaws are not smooth. They are grooved (teethed) for grip.

No, it's an 8-32 screw. There are extractors that will take them out. If he can get the screw to go either direction the screw can be removed. Or, as I said, he can drill it out and use a larger screw (eitehr tapping the hole or use a sheet metal screw.

It has probably been suggested already, but I didn't read the replies. You can try to grip the screw inside the box and twist it where the screw will run into the box and fall out.

It's faster to fix a little drywall the the grief is worth otherwise...

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Intended to add -- the way to fix it if it can be is to drill out the broken screw and re-tap the hole. Again, if that didn't succeed in about 10 minutes or less I'd be on to the next stage and be done in the time spent here so far...

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I try to break the screw off flush and use a #6 Philips head self drilling screw to replace it

Worst case you drill it out and use a larger screw.

I've managed to pop several "new work" boxes out and replace with old work boxes with just a screwdriver, crowbar, and hammer. No damage to walls. Of course the walls in my house are plaster which is slightly more resilient than sheetrock. Still, it is an option.

nate

Thank you Nate and everyone else. I've got a few things to try tomorrow.

One of bigger issues that I have with removing/replacing the box is that the box is apparently a ... for lack of a better term ... sidestrap box based on other reno we've done and what I've found elsewhere. So if you're looking forward at the box, the box resides on the left of a stud with the attachment wrapping and nailed to the front of the stud (older home, nothing in here is what one would expect). While the example video was informative, it's not an option to saw through some nails to get the box out.

However, I appreciate all replies and ideas, and will tackle this this weekend.

Thank you.

No one mentioned another option........having found boxes where the wires are way too short..

install a new box nearby, run romex between boxes and use a blank cover on the abandoned box.....