Ok, so I'm probably making more of this than I need to ...
I am replacing outlets to match new paint in a room and did not notice
that one electrical box still has the old screw in the bottom hole ...
evidently it broke in the hole. There is nowhere to grip it on either
side, not even with needlenose pliers. The plies basically slide off
as soon as I go to turn it.
Can I take a tiny drill bit and drill it out or is there an easier
I don't see how he can use an easy out on a screw that small. It;s
not a 1/4 bolt. If there is enough screw on the far side, willshak's
suggestion of using the bent type of needle nose pliars sounds good.
Also, if there is enough on the front side to try to get a grip on,
I'd use something more like a small pair of lineman type pliers that
have small teeth on them to try to get it, rather than needle nose
which are smooth.
On Sep 17, 9:25 am, email@example.com wrote:
No, it's an 8-32 screw. There are extractors that will take them
out. If he can get the screw to go either direction the screw can be
removed. Or, as I said, he can drill it out and use a larger screw
(eitehr tapping the hole or use a sheet metal screw.
tom firstname.lastname@example.org wrote the following:
I am assuming (perhaps wrongly) that this is a metal outlet box?
You can buy a bent-nose pair of needle nose pliers (I have a pair). It
will allow you to get a better grip on the screw.
I would get a q-tip and spray the cotton end with some liquid wrench
and dab both sides of the screw ( I wouldn't spray the liquid into the
The other solution would be to cut the box from the stud and then
install a new existing wall box, the one with wings that grip the sheetrock.
You talking the cover plate mount hole or the grounding screw, just to
be certain? If the latter, just drill a new hole and go on...
If the former 'tis a pita. If it took me more than 10 minutes fooling
with it I'd probably just replace the box and go on.
Is the bottom screw that holds the receptacle to to box. The issue
with replacing the box is having to fix the drywall that I'd have to
cut to get the box out ... trying to avoid going that route if at all
Intended to add -- the way to fix it if it can be is to drill out the
broken screw and re-tap the hole. Again, if that didn't succeed in
about 10 minutes or less I'd be on to the next stage and be done in the
time spent here so far...
On Fri, 17 Sep 2010 06:31:05 -0700 (PDT), "tom email@example.com"
If you have the bent nose pliers, try to run it "in" until it goes out
the back side. There is more meat on the inside to grab.
If you do bugger up the threads or drill it out so bad another screw
won't bite you can get a "U" shaped speed nut that slips over the ear
to create a new thread.
24 hours after you spray the thing with liquid wrench try a bit that is half
the diameter of the screw. If you are living right the screw will pop out
the back side with no damage to the threads.
Worst case you drill it out and use a larger screw.
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com
I've managed to pop several "new work" boxes out and replace with old
work boxes with just a screwdriver, crowbar, and hammer. No damage to
walls. Of course the walls in my house are plaster which is slightly
more resilient than sheetrock. Still, it is an option.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
Thank you Nate and everyone else. I've got a few things to try
One of bigger issues that I have with removing/replacing the box is
that the box is apparently a ... for lack of a better term ...
sidestrap box based on other reno we've done and what I've found
elsewhere. So if you're looking forward at the box, the box resides
on the left of a stud with the attachment wrapping and nailed to the
front of the stud (older home, nothing in here is what one would
expect). While the example video was informative, it's not an option
to saw through some nails to get the box out.
However, I appreciate all replies and ideas, and will tackle this this
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