I have a wall in my living room which is paneled. The paneling is nailed
right to the studs, no drywall. I want to replace the paneling with
drywall. On walls, I have always laid drywall horizontally (the 8'
dimension running parallel to the floor). Trouble is, the ceiling height is
about 8.5', so 2 widths will not cover it the height. I'm thinking the best
approach is to have the 6" gap in the middle, since this will mean only one
horizontal joint. I'm planning to use 5/8" drywall for the bulk of the
space, I'm thinking if I use 1/2" for the 6" gap in the middle, there will
be a nice depression for mudding. Does this sound like the best approach?
Any suggestions appreciated.
If it were me, I'd use 4 10' sheets run vertically. No butt joints.
Your way will work, but since I don't believe you can get 16' sheets
(I think 14 is the max), you will have butt joints to deal with.
Plus, unless you install double nailers all across the wall, your way
leaves the long seam relatively unsupported. Installed vertically,
every seam will fall on a stud. I suppose you could avoid this by
rocking over the paneling...
Not a bad idea. Also eliminates having to mud the top of the wall into the
ceiling. House is contemporary, only has very narrow molding (about 2") at
the bottom right now. I've been thinking of doing something with that (just
getting started on this house) but I don't think crown molding would look
I do think going with the vertical sheet application would be better.
Thanks for the reply.
I'd think twice about hanging the sheets vertically. Not only is it usually
as aesthetically pleasing (the seams are often more noticeable) but it is a
PITA to do a good job finishing seams that run all the way from the floor to
ceiling (consider how many times you're going to go from crouching on the
floor to up a ladder and reaching to the ceiling - all the while trying to
a nice smooth joint).
I had the same problem. Messed up one end of a 18x30 addition and
hired 'rocker to finish the job. He ran it horizontal with the joint
in the middle. Made it look simple on the taping.
If you hate taping as much as I do, you will run horizontal also.
Pencil it out and you will find about 1/3 less footage of seams going
that way. Then there is the fun of trying to do decent taping job on a
verticle seam, bent way over to get down by the floor and crawl up on
something to work near the ceiling. Any butt joints can be made to
fall over/under doors/windows assuming, of course, that wall has
Hang horizontally. You can get 54" (width) wallboard. Plan on using that
for the upper course and possibly the lower too, depending on the actual
height of the ceiling. (hint: it's easier to trim 6-1/2" than 1/2"
unless you have the proper tool.)
If you use 8' sheets you're going to end up with three butt joints,
One on top and two on bottom. (You want the butt joints to be
staggered.) If you can get 12' sheets into that room you'll avoid that
Drywall lifts work for hanging walls - rent one.
Don't forget the outlet and switch boxes. You want them to end up flush
with the drywall. Either buy box extensions or reposition them before
Since you're only dealing with one wall most of the concealment
techniques would involve working on the other walls which is more
work. Stick with the one wall unless you want to mess about with
moldings and bigger baseboards in the rest of the room.
I'd put the 6" strip at the bottom. By far the least noticeable place
to put it.
The bottom of this article from Fine Homebuilding shows how I deal
with butt joints - 'cepting I use scrap plywood instead of buying
I wouldn't do a whole house that way, but the OP has only one wall to
BTW, if anyone has one of those mechanic's rolling stools, they're
great for scooting around while seated. Really saves the back and
knees when working lower down.
Only if he wants the wall to look like "sheet"... Vertical seams are
impossible to hide, and the wall ends up looking like the surface of
the ocean. Wavy gravy. Professionals only hang sheets vertically if
the wall is less than 4' long.
The drywallers that did my parent's addition used 16' sheets for one
wall so they must be available. Two 16' sheets, and one 8' sheet to
cut the 6" filler out of. Put the filler at the top, not the middle.
Two seams right close together like that, especially with no depressed
edge on one, will look like a stucco chair rail.
Not necessarily. A good tape/finish job on a well hung wall can make
any joint disappear to where it won't even be possible to tell where it
was when properly primed and painted.
Professionals tend to use horizontal for simply the fact it is fewer
linear feet of joint to finish in most instances and for them, speed
equates to pay rate. For the DIY'er, the time is typically essentially
Thanks for the continued input on this. I see what you mean by finishing a
vertical seam. The paneling is this ugly cedar board stuff, with a ~1" wide
by .5" deep depression between the boards, hard to describe, but like
there's another board on the back between every 2 you see on the front.
Also has a very rought finish. It's stained at the moment, could be
painted, but it would still look like crap. I know the best way to go is
horizontally, it's just dealing with sheets that size & getting them here.
Was planning on using that rental truck HD has available, but I don't think
the bed is more than 8' long. I think I'll further investigate the sizes
available, as well as renting the equipment to hoist it into place, then
just have the sheets delivered. I *HATE* drywalling anyway, best to plan it
out so as to limit the mudding!
Thanks again for all the helpful replies, and thanks R for that good
Of course it is, just as verticle seams are. It is a lot easier to do
a good horizontal than a verticle though. It also has to do with the
way the eye sees it, and how the light affects it, a fair verticle
_will_ show up while a fair horizontal won't.
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