| > | > Looking to find the code requirement for 5/8" firecode drywall
| > | > garage. How long do the nails need to be and what spacing for a
| > | > ceiling? TIA
| > |
| > | I don't use nails as they're more prone to popping and they don't
| > | as well as screws.
| > |
| > | Generally 1 1/4" screws, mimimum, are used with 1/2" drywall, and
| > | 5/8" screws with 5/8" board. I'd space the fasteners 8" on
| > | thought the books will tell you 12". Here's a good basic site:
| > |http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/drywall/drwl_4.htm
| > |
| > | If you want the definitive answer on drywall, visit the USG web
| > | and check out their online drywall handbook. More information
| > | you'll ever need.
| > |
| > that's funny
| > the plasterers I hired used nails to tack the sheets and then
| > off with fine thread drywall screws.
| > they also used nails to install all the corner bead.
| > no popped nails yet.
| I see. You're extrapolating your one experience into a universal
| recommendation? I'll trade you one of my similar experiences and
| address your other points.
| I require drywall screws on all projects and have for years. I
| specify the screw lengths - not too long and not too short as both
| cause problems. About fifteen years ago I ripped off an existing roof
| over an existing kitchen addition while remodeling for an excellent
| customer and replaced it with a cathedral-framed roof. The drywall
| subs used nails to tack up the edges of the drywall ceiling board and
| used screws in the field. It was the first time I'd used the sub and
| I raised a ruckus about the nails. They switched to all screws after
| the first few boards. The sub thought I was overreacting and gave the
| usual, "We've never had any problems using nails." About three years
| later, after the wood framing had finished most of its shrinking, I
| had to replace those nails. Not a single screw popped and nearly all
| of the nails popped.
| I don't usually experiment with such mixed installations for
| curiosity's sake, but the nails were already in and I _was_ curious.
| That fifty cents of nails cost me about $200 to repair as I ended up
| having to repaint the ceiling.
| The OP was also asking about drywall, not plaster. Plaster is a lot
| harder and stronger than drywall joint compound. It is less likely to
| have nail pops in plaster. Corner beads have a lot of material
| covering the fasteners, so unless the bead takes an impact, there are
| far fewer pops on the beads. Older, seasoned framing has already
| shrunk and is less likely to pop nails than new wood framing. Screws
| hold better and fewer screws are required. The only penalty with
| screws is that they are slightly more expensive slower to install -
| usually. The difference in price isn't worth mentioning unless you are
| literally counting pennies and place no value on your labor.
| I use autofeed drywall guns and they are faster than nails and you
| have one hand free to hold the board. Never underestimate the value
| of a free hand. The reason your plasterer used nails to tack up the
| board is because they didn't have an autofeed screw gun. If they did,
| they would have used it to tack up the boards. I'm also a little
| surprised that your plasterer used fine thread screws. The coarse
| thread screws are preferable for wood framing and are driven faster.
reason for fine thread drywall screws.
the blueboard was installed on metal studs
they also used drywall liquid nail.
does your plasterer put mesh tape on the metal corners where the joint
is to the wall?
mine did and always does.