Drywall corners around access door - will this work?

Hi all:

I'm in the latter stages of building a play room in an attic space above the garage of my house. It is built into a gabled roof, having

4-foot tall kneewalls along the sides of the room. The space behind the kneewalls will be used for storage, so I will install access doors into the walls. I would like for these doors to be nearly invisible when closed, so I won't be casing them as a conventional opening.

I thought about using a drywall return with metal corner bead, and making a flush plywood door painted the same color as the wall. However, I am concerned that the enevitable bumps when moving items through the opening will eventually bend the corner bead and be difficult to repair. I wonder if I could make a wooden frame around the opening flush with the drywall surface and tape over the wood and mud it like a drywall seam. If it gets dinged, it would be an easier repair, and I could use those fancy Soss invisible hinges for the door (they have to be mortised into the jamb). I am concerned that the drywall-to-wood joint would experience seasonal movement and crack. Will this work? Any alternatives?

Thanks in advance, John.

Reply to
the_tool_man
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John I did something similar. Instead of the corner bead I used metal J bead to finish off the edges of the drywall. I then applied joint compound over the bead to even it out and make it invisible. It's been fine for about eight years.

I bought a set of Soss hinges, but the ones I got need to go into a very thick door. I just made a plywood door with 1" x 3" around the back side and skim coated it. I used several small cabinet hinges and the hinge pins are not that visible.

Make your frame out of double 2" x 4"s all around and it won't shift.

I put a small block of wood on the upper and lower corner and put 1/4-20 Tee nuts on them. I countersunk two holes on the door and use 1/4-20 flat head bolts to keep it closed. To get in you need to use a screwdriver which discourages kids. I also used weather-stripped molding on the back side to keep air from passing through easily.

Reply to
John Grabowski

I recommend a finish other than wallboard. If you use car siding or beadboard, you can make a _truly_ invisible door. The latches can be the magnetic type seen on glass doors.

Reply to
SteveBell

Yes the drywall to wood joint WILL crack. Instead I would put L Bead around trim and caulk the joint....However I like the J Bead on the drywall and flush plywood door you mentioned first unless it was going to be used for a closet and opened every day ....Good luck.....

Reply to
benick

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