I'm replacing an older toilet with a Kohler Wellworth 4276-0. Problem
with old one was roots in the line (see other thread for details). So
the toilet wasn't bad, just old. If I went to the trouble to [learn
how to] remove it, I figured now would be the time to put in a new,
efficient one at the same time. At the hardware store, I asked for
best value, including ease of installation.
In the process of installing the new one, wouldn't you know it, I find
I am ignorant about lots of things.
For instance, the flange, which attached to the black plastic sewer
outlet (probably not the right name for that piece of plumbing) looked
pretty badly corroded. Being covered in a half-melted wax seal made
it look worse than it really was. After clearing the seal away, some
bizarre fig tree roots, brushing it with old tooth brush and
vacuuming, it looks alot better. It appears also to be attached
around the black plastic "neck", and it is fastened to the concrete
floor with anchors. Can't see much of those.
After the clean up, I masked the plastic (rubber?) neck and the vinyl
floor (vinyl over concrete), bought some Loctite Extend Rust
Neutralizer and applied 3 coats of that. Next, on the advice of the
guys at the hardware store, I bought a new flange, gave it a couple
coats of Extend, temporarily fastened it on top of the original flange
with a pair of 5/16" x 2.25" brass T bolts (flange is iron/steel and
bolt is brass - won't dissimilar metals corrode where they touch?) so
I can drill up tp 6 holes to start some Tapcon (1/4" x 2.25") concrete
anchors. Hardware guys recommended I use a Bosch hammer drill bit
(3/16" diameter, 6" end to end). I have an old Portalign tool atached
to my drill that should let me drill good perpendicular holes thru the
tabs on the new flange.
The burning questions of the hour are:
1 should I use 6 anchors or is that way overkill?
2 how deep to make the holes?
3 does the hammer drill bit need special lubricant/cooling? It says
its good for a hundred holes but how deep?
I saw one reference on the web, newsgroup I think, where the writer
said they had used Loctite cement on their anchor theads. What
exactly would (should) that be? I suppose one would dress the threads
with this stuff and then drive them into the holes. Is that correct?
Will a manual screwdriver and a average strength healthy male have
sufficient umph to properly seat those anchors?
After I anchor the flanges, I will mount the new seal on the new
toilet, mount the (base of) the toilet to the flange, putty/caulk,
level and shim as needed. Then mount the tank and hook up to the
water supply. Before that I'll be replacing that resupply valve too
as the old one is very rusted. I expect silicon tape, the thick
stuff. is best the threads on that valve but maybe I've got that
Advice on the putty/caulking would also be appreciated. Is one better
than the other? I have both GE Kitchen & Bath 100% Silicone Sealant
caulk and Oatey Plumber's putty. Hardware guys advised me not to
putty/caulk all the way around the base. Leave an opening so if there
is a water leak / bad seal, I will find out quickly.
Have I left anything out?
Any/all advice is very much welcome.