I removed one wall in preparation to building two to replace it. The bottom
plate was not fastened in any way to the concrete floor. That was nice
because I didn't have to rip it up, but seems inadequate.
Is that considered an acceptable method, or should I fasten it? Is
construction adhesive adequate (should be better than nothing...) or do I
have to go with anchors of some sort; specifically?
As long as I have your attention. One wall is going to butt up to an
existing wall that is drywalled. I was just going to leave the drywall, and
glue the end stud to it, since it doesn't happen to hit at a stud. Not very
strong, but I don't see that it needs any more than that. Is that
the new wall(s) should be fastened in some sort of way. you dont want it
"floating" around do you? use construction adhesive and fasteners. do it
right the first time. dont use the old "cut nails" for attaching tho.
tap-cons are nice n easy. know a friend with a hilti gun?
as for the other part, couldnt tell you. i know i wouldnt do it that
way. id cut the wall open, get some wood in there, then drywall. the only
thing holding that joint together throu the course of the stud is the paper
on the sheetrock. you can tie in the top and bottom, but what about the
rest? someone bumps that corner, get a little aggressive moving a dresser or
Get a hammer drill and concrete bit to match the anchors you buy.
They make anchors that open against the concrete as you tighten them,
I do not recall their name, but I used them on my garage when I placed
it on an existing cement floor. so I could not put threaded rods into
*NO* You are only attached to a piece of paper. Either move the wall
to a stud, or remove the last section of drywall. You got to drywall
the new wall anyhow (I assume). What's a couple more inches. Then add
TRIPLE studs in there to attach your new wall and enough left over for
the drywall to attach to (or double studs and lots of scrap 2x4 pieces
for the drywall).
I second the notion of using tapcons. Use the larger ones (hex heads). I
think they're #10 or thereabouts. They're easy to install. Bore
some holes in the floor plate (before you install it), install temporarily
and use the proper size carbide bit to drill thru the holes to mark the
concrete. Remove the floor plate and finish drilling. Reinstall floor
plate and insert fasteners.
You can bypass the remove/reinstall step, if you can manage to clear the holes
properly thru the floor plate.
No. You'll be unhappy with the result. If nothing else, you'll have
breaks in the drywall job at the joint.
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It\'s not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
Rent a gun that shoots nails into concrete. Lots simpler than all the
drilling etc that others have suggested. Your local lumber yard will
have one and will supply the correct charge cartridges. Actually, if
you can get the concrete clean, just liquid nails will be sufficient if
the framing is tight.
For a short wall that well anchored at both ends and is not load bearing,
I would be tempted to skip anchoring the bottom plate as well. But
otherwise, hit it with tapcons or expansion anchors into holes drilled
into the concrete: you do not want the wall waggling when someone leans up
Again, if it's just a basement remodel sort of job, and both walls are
well anchored top and bottom, then yeah, you could get away with this sort
of joint. Put some moulding into the corner to cover for the inevitable
movement. But you're taking a short cut that won't look good. Open up
the eixsting wall, frame into it and tie everything together. You don't
need to pile a ton of studs in the corner if you use drywall clips.
That's what I'd do if I wanted it to really look great and last.
Remove the dead poet to e-mail, tho CC\'d posts are unwelcome.
Mean People Suck - It takes two deviations to get cool.
The gun powder charge nail guns will fasten the bottom plate to the
slab. Beware that concrete continues to harden over the years. I
cracked a 40 year old slab with the nail gun. Drilled holes and bolts
would have been safer.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.