I've been struggling with securing my front door for months -- I just
can't figure out how to get my door to take a doorknob/lock assembly.
Get this: the door has a 1/8 inch deep, 10 inch long section taken out
of the side of the door where the face plate would go. Then, within
this recessed portion, about an inch and a half from the bottom of the
recess, there's a carve out that perfectly fits the face plate. SO,
when the assembly is installed so that the face plate sits in its
carved out portion, the first 1/8 inch of the latch is actually
embedded in the door, and only the rest of the latch fastens.
This solution is less that ideal -- i.e., not very secure. Has anyone
ever encountered a door like this? Any help would be greatly
On 20 Feb 2006 17:35:49 -0800, "Sherman Oaks Jeff"
Face plate?. My door has no face plate. By side of the door, do you
mean edge of the door?
Of the bolt? The dead bolt or the spring bolt?
All but an eighth of an inch? Isn't that most of it?
Maybe others will understand your description, but I have no idea what
you mean. The seven questions I asked only scratch the surface of
my failure to understand.
Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.
I've actually seen that before, once, many years ago. Normal knob guts and
deadbolt guts were dressed up with surface trim to give the 'look' of a
traditional mortise-style entry lock. The striker and deadbolt were
extra-length to compensate. I bet if OP measures, he'll find the knob hole
center is also 1/8" further in than he thinks as well.
As to a fix- if I couldn't find an exact match for the old hardware, or
mix-n-match same-branded old and new pieces to come up with something that
fits, I'd probably shim the striker hole and bondo the rest of the recessed
area, and use an extended or adjustable striker if needed to make the knob
hole work. I have seen people bondo the knob hole, and just move it down a
couple of inches. If the door was nothing historic and getting tired, I'd
even price out a new door blank.
Is a 1/8"-too-short deadbolt really a problem? Seems like it doesn't
much to me at all, so long as most of the deadbolt latches properly.
And if you are really concerned, can't you just get a deadbolt with a
It's not a big deal. If the latch is engaging the strike plate, that
1/8" probably won't decrease the security of the door at all.
If you want to make the door look better, which I would, cut a piece of
wood to fit the recess, glue/epoxy it in place, and then cut the new
mortise to fit your lock assembly.
This is actually not true, for two reasons:
1: Most door latches have that second little rod so the
door can tell it's closed. If that little rod has
to much play, then you can unlatch the door from
the outside, with a credit card or bit of wire.
2: Most doorframes have a fair amount of spring in them,
and every bit of latch that extends into the
socket in the door-frame is that much more protection
you have against someone just levering the door
sideways until the latch clears.
Deadbolts are for security. The other, as far as I'm concerned, are to
keep the door tightly closed when the wind blows.
That little pin has far more than an 1/8" of operating range. I
suppose if there's a 1/4" gap or more plus the 1/8" from the recessed
lock there could be a problem, but the 1/8" by itself _probably_ won't
decrease the security of the door at all.
Again, the deadbolt is for security...and the dog. ;)
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