Close enough. NPT is National Pipe thread, Tapered, or something very close. (There's also NPS, same dimensions but Straight instead of tapered). The "M" in "MPT" means "male", so you'd expect the full acronym to be "MNPT". But somebody shortened it to "MPT"; dunno why.
Dave
I expect so. It's closely related to the BFH needed for breaking concrete.
Dave
ana had written this in response to
Thanks ana
------------------------------------- Napole> >> Just got a new dishwasher (Kenmore model 665.13834) and I'm having >> trouble
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ana.barragan1_at_gmail_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (ana) wrote in news:49de651b$0$6496$ snipped-for-privacy@news.usenetserver.com:
Whatever seals, washers, compression washers, etc are there are probably destroyed. I'm no plumber and in fact have a lot of nads using the word. But after years of doing the common DIY'r plumbing mistake of overtightening, it finally sunk in. Many plumbing seals, once overtightened, are NG.
It's like cutting lumber. You can always cut it shorter - cut longer. You can always make it tighter - under tighten.
Tighten a fitting until you can feel the sealing surface make contact then just 1 nut facet (usually 1/6 turn) more...no not 1-1/2 and not 2. Don't even try to get it on the first try. Turn on supply, Plan on it leaking/dripping. If it doesn't leak DON'T snug it just for a good feeling. If it leaks then tighten it 1 more facet. Repeat until it stops. I'll often put a piece of paper towel under the fitting overnight for a warm fuzzy.
If this doesn't work then something is wrong with the seating surfaces.
The teflon tape is correct for what you're doing or you can use pipe dope. Make sure to get the one for water lines.
PVC sink drain slip joint nuts. Don't even bring a pair of pliers under the sink. You might as well beat the whole damn thing with a brick before assembling. Hand tighten only. That's why many of them have a tab/wing...for your finger(s) to grip. Undertighten is safe. You can always make it tighter
Just my experience. A real plumber would go broke using this approach.
Red...
Red Green wrote in news:Xns9BE8EAA735D2CRedGreen@216.168.3.70:
p.s. Read the Comment at the bottom. It ends with:
i occasionally had tightened teflon joints to the point of distortion and was unable to make them stop leaking. never had that problem with Pipe Dope.
If the valve side of the elbow is NPT threaded then TFE tape ought to prevent leaks, why don't you think it will on that side?
I agree that TFE tape on the threads probably won't stop leaks on the supply side, which appears to be a coned compression fitting.
But, I have stoped leaks on such fittings by wrapping TFE tape so it's on the angled cone sealing surface and then assembling the joint. I've done similar on compression fittings which "just won't seal" by wrapping the compression sleeve (aka ferrule) with TFE tape.
Unorthox, true. But the essence of pragmatism can be summed up as, "If it works, do it."
Jeff
Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.
On 09 Apr 2009, ana.barragan1_at_gmail_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (ana) wrote in alt.home.repair:
Yes, I did fix the problem. My problem was that I was being too gentle with the fittings. I did crank it down pretty hard, or so I thought, but I was afraid to force it for fear of cracking the brass fitting on the dishwasher side, and also to avoid having the L-bend wind up facing the wrong way. But it still leaked. Finally I was encouraged to tighten it even harder, and I managed almost once complete turn. That did it - no more leaks, and it's held tight ever since then.
I'm surprised to see my old usenet post show up on that web site, and I'm impressed that you knew to respond back here. I hope you're able to fix your leak.
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