My under cabinet over range microwave died. Nothing is working. I've check
the circute and tested the outlet and cord, All indicate power to the
Anything else I can try ? Before either service or buying a new one.
Not recommending this for obvious safety reasons, but I have brought several
'dead' micros back to life by taking them apart and putting them back
together, cleaning all the contacts and microswitches I come across, and
replacing any popped internal fuses and melted connectors. If if is a modern
micro with one of those damn touchpads, the brain probably crapped out, but
it can't hurt cleaning those connections too. I definitely would never pay
for a service call on a micro over 2-3 years old- new ones are just too damn
cheap. I doubt you could get a service call for less than a hundred bucks.
If you can deinstall it and carry it in, maybe a little cheaper.
This house had one of those over-stove electronic micros when I bought it.
Cost me forty bucks, online, to buy a replacement door handle for the broken
badly designed one that had fallen apart. Mostly I still use my 25 year old
el-cheapo-at-the-time Korean countertop micro with the mechanical controls.
I'm getting real curious how long it will last. I paid around $200 for it in
1982? or so, and a current equal would be about 50 bucks.
Likewise here. Still puzzled, but all I replaced was the lightbulb that
stopped working along with the rest of the uWave oven. This was a '70's
heavy box that still works.
Over the stove uWave ovens are not cheap - have you looked lately. So if
it's relatively new, may be worth trucking it to a service place.
If you can't fix it cheaply - give up on the over the stove type. Way too
expensive. Replace it with an exhaust hood and get a countertop model.
You'll have beer moeny left over.
countertop micro with the mechanical controls.
Any basic applience should be bought with the most basic conrols. It's
cheaper and will last longer. Also have a chance to fix it yourself/
You want to stay clear of the power supply if you delve into it
yourself,voltages run around 2000 V.
That HV cap can retain a nasty charge for a while,too.
I have a 30 yr old Sharp MV that the HV cap shorted(with a nice BANG) and
blew an internal fuse.It cost me $25 to buy a new cap and diode,installed
them myself.It's been running for several years since then.
I think the tube's power output is finally dropping from old age,though.
did u check the slow blow fuse in side the cover? be careful there are
caps in side that could store high voltage inside around 5 to 6
thousand volts ,if it is blown replace with the same type of
fuse....if it blows again something is shorted ... take to a service
place for a est. or replace which ever is more cheaper
There might be a fuse inside the case. At my brother's house, they
had two racks, one that came from the microwave and an almost
identical one that didn't. He put in the one that didn't and melted
things a little. And blew the fuse. They had the identical thing at
radioshack, like a glass fuse but with a white tube. Worked fine
after it was replaced.
I think other things can blow the fuse as well.
Most likely the door interlock safety switch, especially if those in your
household have a tendency to open the door while it is still running. But
to be honest, for the time, effort,safety, and energy savings I'd hit a big
box store and just get a new one. I'd also stop opening the door while the
thing is running.
Problem solved. Instead of using the timer the cook buttton was used. The
oven overheated and must have had a auto shutoff if it overheats. After it
cooled the oven when back on.
Thanks for your replys.
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