Dead Microwave

My under cabinet over range microwave died. Nothing is working. I've check the circute and tested the outlet and cord, All indicate power to the microwave.
Anything else I can try ? Before either service or buying a new one.
Thanks Dick

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How did you check the cord?

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Not recommending this for obvious safety reasons, but I have brought several 'dead' micros back to life by taking them apart and putting them back together, cleaning all the contacts and microswitches I come across, and replacing any popped internal fuses and melted connectors. If if is a modern micro with one of those damn touchpads, the brain probably crapped out, but it can't hurt cleaning those connections too. I definitely would never pay for a service call on a micro over 2-3 years old- new ones are just too damn cheap. I doubt you could get a service call for less than a hundred bucks. If you can deinstall it and carry it in, maybe a little cheaper.
This house had one of those over-stove electronic micros when I bought it. Cost me forty bucks, online, to buy a replacement door handle for the broken badly designed one that had fallen apart. Mostly I still use my 25 year old el-cheapo-at-the-time Korean countertop micro with the mechanical controls. I'm getting real curious how long it will last. I paid around $200 for it in 1982? or so, and a current equal would be about 50 bucks.
aem sends...

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several
Likewise here. Still puzzled, but all I replaced was the lightbulb that stopped working along with the rest of the uWave oven. This was a '70's heavy box that still works.
Over the stove uWave ovens are not cheap - have you looked lately. So if it's relatively new, may be worth trucking it to a service place.
If you can't fix it cheaply - give up on the over the stove type. Way too expensive. Replace it with an exhaust hood and get a countertop model. You'll have beer moeny left over.
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countertop micro with the mechanical controls.
Any basic applience should be bought with the most basic conrols. It's cheaper and will last longer. Also have a chance to fix it yourself/
RichK

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Most of us that use OTR models do so because we don't have much choice. I'd much rather have a $70 counter model, but I just don't have the counter to sacrifice.

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You want to stay clear of the power supply if you delve into it yourself,voltages run around 2000 V. That HV cap can retain a nasty charge for a while,too.
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I have a 30 yr old Sharp MV that the HV cap shorted(with a nice BANG) and blew an internal fuse.It cost me $25 to buy a new cap and diode,installed them myself.It's been running for several years since then. I think the tube's power output is finally dropping from old age,though. :-(

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If you're going to suggest tearing a microwave oven apart, you should be kind enough to mention the lethal charge that can linger.

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How long can a cap hold a charge? The ones I played with had all been sitting for weeks, and I never opened the power supplies.
aem sends...

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It depends on the oven. I've heard of them holding a charge for weeks.
The charge isn't just inside the power supply. It is from HV cap to magnetron.

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did u check the slow blow fuse in side the cover? be careful there are caps in side that could store high voltage inside around 5 to 6 thousand volts ,if it is blown replace with the same type of fuse....if it blows again something is shorted ... take to a service place for a est. or replace which ever is more cheaper

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in wrote:
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More like 2000 volts. the HV cap in mine is only rated for 2500V.

On Mon, 06 Aug 2007 00:27:45 GMT, "Platebanger"
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There might be a fuse inside the case. At my brother's house, they had two racks, one that came from the microwave and an almost identical one that didn't. He put in the one that didn't and melted things a little. And blew the fuse. They had the identical thing at radioshack, like a glass fuse but with a white tube. Worked fine after it was replaced.
I think other things can blow the fuse as well.
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Most likely the door interlock safety switch, especially if those in your household have a tendency to open the door while it is still running. But to be honest, for the time, effort,safety, and energy savings I'd hit a big box store and just get a new one. I'd also stop opening the door while the thing is running.
2cents.

Problem solved. Instead of using the timer the cook buttton was used. The oven overheated and must have had a auto shutoff if it overheats. After it cooled the oven when back on.
Thanks for your replys. Dick
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Don'tcha love it when stuff fixes itself?
aem sends...

everytime mine died, I had to replace a fuse. It could be either on the back of the unit or inside (remove the case to get at it)
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There's a type of fuse on top of the antenna that "melts" if you overheat the oven (cook on high with nothing in it etc.).
Did it die in the middle of a heavy-duty cooking cycle?
Platebanger wrote:
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