Looks like I'm going to be using 5" crown molding on a cathedral
bedroom ceiling. It's paint-grade, but because the molding
profile is so large I will not be able to fake the joints.
The problems are:
o Where the level ceiling line meets the rake, the plumb cut
on the rake molding will not match the profile on the level;
it will be wider. I was thinking of some sort of stop block
in the corner, but this doesn't seem ideal, or easy.
o The ceiling on the level runs moves up and away from the top
of the molding, creating a gap. I could place a filler strip
it, but that wouldn't match the rake profile. This also mitigates
for the use of stop blocks in the corners.
Any creative ideas would be appreciated.
I've done lots of crown. Difficult to describe without seeing your
situation. Take a look at the base molding. Make returns to the wall
or run the molding straight into the wall, whichever looks better. (I
don't want to create a fight here, but...) I've found that women have
a knack knowing what looks best.
Your filler has to go on the wall not the ceiling, then when you run the
rake, the profile will match on your plumb cut. You already know you're
trying to use a crown made for a 90 degree angle to try to use for something
other than 90. Not a lot of choices without filler on the wall or having
custom crown made for the degree your cathedral slopes.
I take it you mean canting the level run upward, so the rake sees
it at a right angle. Interesting, I hadn't thought of that. But
even with the relatively low pitch roof - 3½ on 12 - I don't see
that looking good, on first consideration. Have you ever done
this, and how did it turn out?
The custom rake crown is the ideal solution, but it's not going
We've done something like it. It was a double oak build out (3 pc. crown).
The wall build out was thicker than the ceiling, so it really didn't show as
such. It showed as a 3 piece. We had ripped down the ceiling, to whatever
was needed, but ripped the thickness on both oak bands. Didn't try to get
it all on the one band.
Your word picture has perhaps pointed out what I think is a
solution. Place the level piece first, relieving the top so it
fits to the ceiling, and mitering the end normally. Now make a
transition piece, mitered to the level piece and splay-mitered to
the coming rake piece.
Gonna be challenging to cut that transition piece, though.
That should work, and be geometrically correct, for inside
miters. The problem I still have is on a closet that comes off of
one level run. It's side follows the roof slope, but it's face is
level. The outside miter between the two would not seem to bow to
the above approach.
Installing crown molding on a sloped ceiling is no more difficult than
installing the crown on a horizontal ceiling. For a sloped ceiling all
you are adding to the job are turns of the crown in a vertical direction.
In other words, when installing the horizontal crown and you get to a
corner where you want to turn upwards you make both a horizontal turn and
a vertical turn in the corner and then proceed up the sloped ceiling.
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