Crimp sleeve or alternate ideas...

The old pot metal split ends for push-on style knob for the oven timer/clock finally broke leaving the end of the 1/8" OD shaft.

As it is obsolete and no longer available and the oven/ragne itself is also of a style no longer produced that do not want to give up, the need is to be able to repair...

It's long enough stub that if could find a crimp-style butt connector, think could manufacture a replacement split shaft or cut the end off a sacrificial product and attach for the knob to push on to...

I'm not thinking of right search terms to be finding anything that meets my idea...have some old telephone wire nicopress that are just a little too small...

Or, other ideas also welcomed...

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Reply to
dpb
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The metal post broke ? I've seen the old plastic knobs crack at the insertion point .. from heat & age & cheapness. John T.

Reply to
hubops

If you are not in love with that particular knob you could get a

1/8x1/4" bushing, epoxy it on the shaft and use a set screw type 1/4" knob. There are plenty of styles in that category
Reply to
gfretwell

The metal post broke ? I've seen the old plastic knobs crack at the insertion point .. from heat & age & cheapness. John T.

Yes...it's the style with a kerf down the middle of end of shaft leaving the two semi-circular halves...one half had been broken off for quite some time, finally the other gave way, too...

Of course, it's really cheap/weak metal shaft so it's not like it's all that much torque to twist as there's very little cross-sectional area left.

The knob itself is just fine...

Reply to
dpb

How about a piece of copper tubing or similar that will slip over it? Then maybe drill a larger hole in the knob to receive it, together with glue? You'd probably have to break it if you ever need to get it off, but given the choices, I could live with that. I suppose if you have numbered drills and can size it right, you could get it so that the knob would press fit on tight enough, maybe with just a tiny bit of glue?

Reply to
trader_4

On Fri, 3 May 2019 17:30:43 -0500, dpb snipped-for-privacy@none.net wrote: ...

What type of control is it? Can you point us to a picture? Is this the part that adjusts the clock? What brand stove/oven? Can the shaft be readily removed from the timer? Are you sure it''s pot metal? Zinc or aluminum? definitely not ferrous?

A) Clock/timer functions B) I've not found any; have to take one a post link...tomorrow, maybe. C) Yes, and all the timed operation functions and timer D) mid-80s GE -- specific parts unavailable(*) D) "Readily?" probably not. Theoretically possible? Maybe... E) Yes/Not Al/Yes

(*) In past there's been listed alternate electronic module altho I've not checked whether it's still available or not.

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Reply to
dpb

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Well, that was my idea...excepting I'm finding nothing of suitable ID/OD for the sleeve which is the Q? ...

Reply to
dpb

Provide actual model number please.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

solid brass - drill to fit - or solid aluminum drill to fit, or tube of either with too small ID and drill to fit.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

GE JBV42G

I did go ahead and order one of the electronic replacement modules just to have on hand if all else fails while they're still available...ordered the magnetron some time back to stick on shelf--the unique item with these ranges is the microwave is the full-size oven itself and the kitchen in the old farm house simply has no room to put a free-standing microwave...so, having that feature that is no longer available by any manufacturer is _a_big_deal_ in keeping it.

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Reply to
dpb

What diameter do you need on the ID? Where are you located? Don't need a mill - just a lathe - which I have in the garage.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

How so? Has worked for nearly 40 years... and the timer/clock itself is still fully functional; just lost the handle. Pliers work, but are somewhat inconvient, the missus says... :)

Reply to
dpb

I just read they were known to be a problem. Yours has worked well, but apparently some didn't.

What you basically need is a knob about 3/8 inch long with a long hollow shaft to fit over the 1/8 inch stub that you can epoxy on - right? How much of the 1/8 inch shaft do you have left to work with (that you can slip the new shaft over)?

Reply to
Clare Snyder

I already suggested getting a 1/8" x 1/4" bushing and finding another knob or drilling out his to 1/4".

Reply to
gfretwell

On 5/5/2019 12:52 AM, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote: ...

Indeed you did; but I ain't found such...yet, anyways... :)

Reply to
dpb

On 5/5/2019 7:49 AM, dpb wrote: ...

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The above I see is somewhat misleading -- that's to the face of the clock face itself, not the covering face...there's only about 1/4" or less past the outer cover.

Reply to
dpb

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Reply to
Dean Hoffman

On 5/5/2019 8:34 AM, Dean Hoffman wrote: ...

Interesting! Thanks...da..n! They be proud of 'em, though, ain't they!!??? One could think they were painted JD green. :)

Q? says are D-shaped shaft, but perhaps could file a flat onto existing shaft. Doesn't give a shaft diameter...not one there to go look at and is 60+ mi drive, anyway, but interesting there is such an animal...

Reply to
dpb

Very readily available for 6mm shafts - not so common for the smaller sizes.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

On 5/5/2019 2:56 PM, Clare Snyder wrote: ...

That's a city mindset/expectation ... <VBG>

Small towns standing alone for 60-100 mi radius just can't support such relatively low-volume businesses, unfortunately.

If it ain't oil patch or farm production related, it just ain't at all likely going to be available locally...

Reply to
dpb

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