Much depends on what you are planning to do on the bench, as others
above have said. When I build mine, I wanted plastic laminate, however,
a sheet was sooooo expensive that I quickly abandoned that. I finally
used laminate flooring. I picked a pattern that was smooth and
It works pretty well, is cleanable and durable .... maybe not to hammer
on, but, for the stuff I do, it's good. It is glued down to an OSB
surface and edged with a rounded over piece of oak. For hammering, I
have vice and an old stage weight that serves well.
I've since expanded it to L shaped, with the addition a few inches
lower which is used for electronic stuff.
Solid core doors work well. YOu should be able to ask for damaged doors
- they usually go for about $10. You might consider edge banding the
top and adding a masonite cap that can be replaced when necessary.
1. make surface light colored and place diffuse lighting in a non-
2. make surface robust, oil resistant, won't dent or scratch with over
40 awkward pounds set on it, and yet smooth for finding small parts
3. support, support, support in a manner that still allows you to get
your knees under the top - anywhere. [you have no idea how irritating
slight flexing can be.]
4. make kitchen counter height, but slightly higher to adjust to
yourself. Too high and uncomfortable angle to work, too low and you're
bent over all day [get roll around bar stools that quit moving when
you apply sitting pressure and allow you to 'lean' against [slightly
sitting on them] for support. That way, you can walk off, get
whatever, come back, [roll around so you can move chair to different
position - your hands may be holding something and you need to move
that chair] and continue working with little effort. You have NO idea
how tiring getting up and down from a work station can get.
5. be prepared to accept damage to your beautiful work bench. It will
happen.Like the first dent in a new car.
On Fri, 9 Nov 2012 06:21:53 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
All good advice, but most too late for SMS who has the bench already.
Personally, I don't see any benefit in "smooth" or "hard" Never have
trouble seeing anything small on beat up and "dirty" (stained) soft
wood workbench surfaces. I like that character.
Dents keep small parts from rolling off.
Just hang a foxtail and dustpan on a nail stuck in the side of the
bench, and use them.
On Fri, 09 Nov 2012 13:36:38 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Yeah, you want top overhang, but we're past the design part.
Somebody just covered knee space.
Most of my hanging nails are in the front top rails.
Used to keep pipe wrenches on them until I went pegboard.
And hammers between 2 nails, which was always a bad idea,
because they can fall on your foot too easily.
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