These are the kind of results I fairly often see, and I wonder why
they say it shows one thing, when I think it shows the opposite.
I don't know how one can call 3+% or 10% negligible.
I would also like to know exactly what they meant by "their charge".
They might mean ampere-hours but they might not. The easiest thing to
measure is voltage, and 10% of 1.5 volts is a tremendous amount. The
batteries when new are somewhat more than 1.5 volts and if they are
the same amount over 1.35 volts (1.5 - 10%), I'd consider them
And I'm suspicious about their finding a difference between AA vs. C
or D. Electrically, they are the same. Only the size is different.
Is there really a difference or did they do something wrong?
So for simplicity, let's assume exactly 1.5 volts for a AA battery.
And that they are judging charge by voltage. Minus 3.5% is minus 0.052
volts, giving 1.45 volts. That is low. 1.5 is good. 1.45 is
And what about batteries that are kept more than 2.5 years? I have
special sizes that have been in the frigde much longer than that.
(They were removed from somthing that broke, and I'm saving them until
I need them.)
What I do find valuable from their report is that the ones in the
fridge they found "kept their charge perfectly".
This is another comment at that page:
He seems to go from one example to saying "Usually" at the top.
That's ridiculous. In addition, it is my experience that batteries
weaken at the same rate when used in the same thing. That's what my
voltmeter shows. And how could it be any other way? Unless one
battery was defective, they are all going to have the same amount of
current going through them, etc. etc.
So I don't think this tips page does much to vet their statments,
which come from more than one person.
This is nonsense. If it has a shelf-life of 5 years, that means at 5
years and one day it might be too weak to use. If the fridge would
extend the shelf life even minutely, it would still be good that day.
In fact it would be better every day than it would have been if not
kept in the fridge. They say things like this to encourage people to
And I can't trust his use of "minutely". Just yesterday in this news
group someone called a horseshoe peg "minuscule" because it was 2
centimeters tall. That is not minuscule and who knows if this guy
(who in the next paragraph misuses the word "cool" knows what
I was impressed by Schapp, because he is said to be a spokesman for
Everyready Battery. But he's lost my respect. First he says a dry,
cool space. Then he says 70 degrees is ideal. 70 degrees is not
cool. For most it is room temperature. For me it is hotter than room
temperature. (I like 68.) Cool is 45 to 60.
No one is suggesting keeping batteries in the freezer.
So the moisture matters if the batteries freeze?
So then none of this applies to all those who put batteries in the
fridge and not the freezer. STrangly, I've noticed that everything
seems to work fine when I take batteries out of the fridge and put
them in something as quickly as possible. I thought they would have
to warm up, but I haven't seen that.
If it is only partially true, why is that not enough? Below he seems
to say that it is not dry in the fridge. I haven't seen any
consequences from that. The Consumers Reprot study at the top said
that batteries didn't lose any charge in 2.5 years in the fridge, and
that paragraph said nothing about efforts to keep them dry/
Don't know for sure, but I keep my photographic film, my yet to be
used prescription medicine, my nice candles, and my rechargeable and
non-re. batteries in the refrigerator. They sometimes take up more
room than the food, I think.
A guy I met at a hamfest who bought out four RadioShacks and is
selling what he bought said that NiCd batteries need a cool dry place
iirc but not a fridge. I only have a couple of those in the fridge,
but I may move them when I find a good spot. I don't really know what
power tools use.
Assuming you don't have any drill/driver at all then you should get a
corded one first. Cordless drills/drivers are populare and fun to
use. Corded drills are real workhorses in comparison. They are less
expensive, more powerful, and more cost effective. You might be happy
with a cheap drill but mine are all Milwaukeee brand which has a great
If the corded one doesn't please you or you have some money to blow
then you can alway buy a cordless drill/driver later. They are maybe
better suited to driving screws since they have slower speeds and an
If you decide to get a cordless drill, here's a tip to get the most life out
of your batteries:
When you detect the speed of the drill slowing down, an indication that the
battery has discharged, stop using the drill immediately. Swap batteries and
put the discharged one in the charger.
Running batteries completely flat causes the cells to heat up. Batteries
don't like heat, and will decrease their life if heated up regularly.
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