I salvaged a hot water heater burner which I attchewd to a strong metal
stand as a NG burner for boiling outdoors in which I will connect it up to
the gas line which I have on the back porch.The fitting on the gas line of
the burner is a flanged end with a nut above it as in a compression fitting
but it is NOT a compression fitting.The local HD plumbing guy is fairly
knowledgeable and he suggested that I may have to remove this fitting and
try a compression fitting but he did not have one that he was sure would
work..I'm wondering if I could just sweat on some Cu pipe since it will not
be constantly filled with Ng,only when I use it.
This is Turtle.
Hey EL , Plain copper tubing it never used on any natural gas transfer
tubing lines at all unless they are lined with some type of coating like AL.
or epoxie coating to prevent the chemical reactions to make the Sulfur drop
out of the natural gas and only if it has any left in it when it is used.
Also you have copper oxide to deal with in the burning equipment in these so
call lab burnering equipment your speaking about. If you check you will find
they are lined with a coating and not regular copper tubing lines. Now I
have been told by the manufactors of propane equipment that regular copper
can be used because propane is not suppose to react with the plain copper.
So, plain copper tubing is never used on natural gas lines in industry or
laboratory installations unless they are have a liner coating in them.
People at HD and other places like that are for the most part, IDIOTS.
I'm surprised they didnt sell you a garden hose for the gas.
Natural gas is piped thru BLACK STEEL PIPE ONLY.
Propane uses copper (or steel).
When you connect the black pipe, DO NOT use teflon tape either. Use
pipe dope (liquid paste). (there is a special teflon tape made for
gas, but if you can find it, it's expensive. The dope is cheaper and
has been used for decades).
For starters...the Home Depot PLUMBING GUY??
Lord...I swear...ask them to quote code to you...hell..ask any of them if
vinyl 4 inch tubeing is still legal for dryer vent..(hint..its not)
Now...check with your local code enforcement guys...AKA inspection office.
Some areas, copper is illegal due to content of sulpher dioxide grains, and
it will eat the copper from the inside out.
The exact amount that will ban the use of copper is in the gas code
book...and your local inpection office can tell you.
This is Turtle.
I would suggest using the flare fittings to connect to the gas line to the
burner. You can go to any auto supply places like O'Reilly's or Auto zone
and get you qa flaring tool block and flaring head to make a flare to screw
a flare nut on the burner. You don't have to weld anything on it but just
get you a flare ended flex hose from any hardware store and screw it on
there and buy you a 3/8" compression end on one end and pipe threads on the
other. then you just stat running from the 3/8" , 1/2" or what ever end you
choose to run your line back to the NG system.
If your not going to use the pilot lite feature of the burner you can use
copper tubing to supply the NG for you will have open bore lines to keep the
copper oxide down and not be a problem.
Now here is another note here on the hot water tank burner for cooking and
boiling with pots. The burn will be high enough for cooking food and
regular needs for cooking but you will not have enough btu output to boil
crawfish or fry Turkey in 25 gal pots with the burner you have. you will be
limited to just plain cooking and no heavy boiling activity. This is why
open bore propane burners are needed to get the very high btu output to boil
crawfish and fry turkeys.
I wouldn't rely on people who weren't licensed for the trade, even if
they worked in the business, at least not from a supplier that sold
mostly to retail customers, especially for something like this, where
you could be killed. The safest thing to do is get pipe rated
especially for natural gas.
At another home improvement center, I asked for some pre-mixed mortar
with a strength grade of "M" or "S" for a high wall. The person there
had no idea and claimed that their pre-mixed was strong enough, even
though none of the packages were labelled for strength. I said it was
probably rated only "N" and that it had too much lime to be very
strong, but the person replied that he used to work as a mason and
that the more lime in mortar, the stronger it was --the opposite of
the truth. I ended up getting the mortar from a masonry supply, where
they understood exactly what I wanted, and I paid exactly the same
price for much higher quality.
Further info (and thanks to all for the advice)This particular HD has a lot
of retired ex-plumbers and electricians working there so I feel a bit of
confidence with them.I should have mentioned that this burner is 75 K BTU
and WILL handle large volume boils
This is Turtle.
henry , 75k btu's is still small for fring turkeys and boiling crawfish. You
will find this out when you try to do it. Most crawfish boiler burners will
have 200+K btu ability.
I appreciate the time and interest you show in trying to help me.Metal
Fusion who makes King Cooker is about 2 miles away and the makers of Cajun
Cooker is about 20 miles away and the standard jet boiler (which I have) is
110 K BTU.The smaller 35K burners WILL boil but in a slower time.Both
companies who do NOT have a 75K BTU burner assure me that 75K will work so I
am going with this burner,using the setup advice you were so kind to offer.
This is Turtle
What i was getting at here is the jet boilers burners will put out way more
than what they say. You can get 200K btu's out of a 110 btu jet boiler
burner. When you have a pattern type burner like out of a hot water tank the
pattern will be spread out and when you turn it up to say get it on. The
pattern burner will not burn correctly and have trouble tring to get up to
where a jet type boiler burner can do. I have cook a many a Mud bug and the
single jet burner is the way to go.
Jet burners are for boiling and fast to get it on.
Pattern type burners are for cooking and low speed flame cooking.
Mud Bug Season will be here soome in Feb. 1 , 2004.
P.S. Where are you from knowing about the King Cookers ? I'm from Louisiana
So...did any of those HD genuis' run you a gas diametertic? Did they tell
you how large the pipe HAD to be and how large is too large? Did they figure
a volume for you to need? Primary and secondary regs? Pressure of the
system? Total BTU delivery?
I didnt think so.
Anyone, and I mean anyone, that takes the advice off the top of ANYONES
head, that does not have the proper information in front of them, charts and
all, and uses that information that was incorrectly given to them in regards
to fuel piping, is a total and complete idiot.
One more thought...retired plumbers eh? Plumbers dont run gas here where I
am at. Only licenced and insured pipefitters and HVAC contractors may
legally run gas line. Code has probably changed since they
retired...therefore, your best advice is to find a licenced person currently
working with the current code books and get the information from THEM, not
some ex-plumber that could not make it in the real world and had to start
taking a check from HD to make it.
There is a reason that a plumber, or any other tradesman is working at HD
and not out there doing what they are supposed to be doing...working in the
trade..and normally, it means they were not good enough to survive on their
Only brave men and addled fools get creative with natural gas lines.
There is an established way, my son. Feel for the Force, it will guide you
through the task you have set forth. Get a second opinion, and not from Home
Depot, and you may one day be a Jedi in training.
Remember these words which wise ones have left for us.
Do not use compression fittings. Use flare ends. You can get the tool at
yoru local HW store. Practice on some scrap first.
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