Well, that's about as simply put as I have seen it. But I do understand the math folks here making their point, as most time angles are measured, they are measured on the inside. And from there, it goes into reciprocals, etc. As long as the pipe fits, and everyone's using the same method of measuring, it's good.
Ya gotta love em anyway. One of my grownup girlfriends voted for Bill Clinton because he was pretty, she didn't like the way the other guy looked. Besides, fixing women would destroy any of the limitless entertainment value they possess. My only problem is that I can't tolerate the crazy ones because I refuse to be abusive. Some people live for conflict, it excites them. Not me, I like peace and quiet.
"Rudy" wrote in news:aD2en.44952$4p5.9456 @newsfe22.iad:
It's not cheaper when you factor in the price of connectors, at least not the job I'm doing. I was considering PEX and then they showed me the seriously holy crud overpriced connectors. I decided to use copper instead.
I'm still not sold on PEX. The tubing may be good, but I have yet to see a connector I trust. Sharkbites use rubber o-rings to make the seal. Know what happens to rubber o-rings after 10-20 years? My copper will be sound when the rubber o-rings have disintegraged and the sharkbites are all leaking :-)
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in news:4pidnRAOMJszoOTWnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
They haven't been around long enough for anyone to really know for sure what will happen in 20 years. I hope I'm wrong, but it just seems to me to be really stupid to put something in a wall that uses a rubber o-ring to make a seal. I've got connectors here and there like this (that use a rubber o-ring to make a seal), mostly for my well and garden, and they all have one thing in common - they all leak after a while.
Time will tell - I'm still thining of becoming a plumber in 10-15 years. Just in case I'm right :-)
You should NOT be bending 1/2 or 3/4 copper piping... You need to route the piping by using the proper pipe fittings...
Bending piping weakens it and with the quality of water and the amount of chemicals in it, you don't want to create a weak point where it will fail as it begins to corrode on the inside... Also you want to take care not to use too much flux before you solder, any solder that gets INSIDE the pipes will pit the inner surface of the pipe and create a spot which will fail in the future...
Well the question here is: What sort of shower value do you have installed ???
Is it a scald protection temperature balancing type ??? If it is, your cartridge inside the valve body might need to be replaced due to build-up of crud from hard water conditions... If it isn't one, meaning you have an older home with the individual hot/cold water valves for the tub/shower, then you might want to consider installing a new scald protection shower valve...
LOL... The cost of PEX isn't in the tubing or the end adapter for the copper pipe stub at the fixture, it is entire with the TOOLS you need to work with it...
You need a special tubing cutter to make cuts that are just right... You need the tubing expander to stretch the tubing to insert the end fittings...
If you are making connections of PEX tubing INSIDE your walls you are missing the point, PEX is supposed to be run in an unbroken manner from distribution manifold to the fixture connection without any breaks or connections to extend the length of the tubing run inside the walls... PEX is supposed to be run as if you were pulling communications wiring in a homerun or "star topography", and NOT in the same manner you would run copper pipes from device to device...
It's one of those constant volume valves, where you can't control how much water comes out. I hate it. I like to control water volume, so I replaced it with extreme prejudice :-)
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