I am assuming a thermostadt problem? We have a standard refrigerator,
about 10 years-old, with the freezer
on top and an icemaker.
Several months ago we had a problem where the freezer was working fine
but the refrigerator was warm. Our service guy replaced the defrost
timer (I believe that's what he called it) and everything's been fine.
He stated that you're lucky to get ten years out of a
refrigerator these days. I thought that was kind of odd, too.
Now a few months later we go away for the weekend and come back to the
contents of the refrigerator being frozen solid (all liquids, etc).
We have the dial on 3 out of 5. Am I to assume the thermostadt is the
Getting this second hand through my wife, but the repair guy came today
to replace the thermostat and said when he unhooked the old one from
the main harness (or something like that), the fans and everything are
continuing to run which he said shouldn't happen, meaning the problem
is worse than just a thermostat and is probably some kind of short
running through the unit. Does this make sense to anyone? According
to him he wouldn't be able to fix it and we need to get a new refrig.
Here's another update. The repairman determined the thermostat is fine
but when he moved the refrigerator away from the wall a couple of
inches the frig started operating properly, but when he pushed it back
against the wall it stopped working properly. Was there over an hour.
He said he was truly stumped and it will bug him all day. Jiggled a
lot of wires and saw no sparks or signs of arcing (this is all 2nd hand
again). We left it a few inches away from the wall and allegedly
working fine so we have to decide now to live with it or get a new
We can't live with it too long away from the wall as our kitchen is too
small as it is.
Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
I have this "warm" problem two to three times a year. The cause is a
frozen-blocked cold air transfer duct from the freezer compartment.
(Explanation below). The cure is to defrost the fridge throughly.
Remove the fridge contents. switch off the power. Keep the doors open
overnight to melt the frost throughly. Put a towel on the fridge
floor to soak up the melt. Use the opportunity to clean the fridge
throughly. The duct and freezer box walls are usually covered in
plastic trim and not accessible. The "door open" defrost is still the
Explanation: If you look at the back of the freezer there is a plastic
cover over a fan. Remove the cover. Next to the fan you will see an
opening into the wall of the firdge. There is a similar plastic cover
in the fridge compartment for the opening from this duct. This duct
transfers cold freezer air to the main fridge compartment.
If your fridge door leaks due to a bad door gasket or having the door
not close fully (1) moist air will condense inside that freezer air
transfer duct and block most of it. The main fridge compartment then
never gets cold enough (2 to 5 deg C) and the thermostat keeps calling
for more cold air from the freezer. That gets the compressor and fan
going way past what is needed to operate the freezer. The whole
fridge becomes a freezer compartment in the process.
(1= In my case I eventually realised I had too much stuff on the door
shelves. That abut onto the fridge contents and kept the door from
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