I will be adding a new phone jack to a wall in the house.
As there's no phone wire or other jack anywhere near it, the simplest
approach seems to be to just connect it to the main phone box of Verizon's
on the outside wall, which is directly opposit where I want the new
extension jack to be.
Can I just strip the wire, and place the the bare red and green wire's
copper under the screw terminal of the appropriate screw terminals in the
outside box ?
Or, is there some kind of connector, or crimp on tab, that should be used
when going to the main phone box of Verizon ?
Any caveats to be aware of ?
You CANNOT hook up to that box. If you have a basement, the cable
coming into the basement from the Phone box should have a splice for
all the phone jack connections. Follow this and sooner or later you
will find the splice's. This is where you want to hook up your new
wires......just match the colors up and walla..
I've got the same question, assuming the OP is talking about hooking up on
the customer side of the network interface device. In fact, I'd almost say
that is the most ideal place to connect to!
Maybe I'm missing something...........
He most certainly CAN. In fact, he SHOULD.
If the home has an official SNID, it's even easier now than ever.
This was settled in the 1984 Modified Final Judgement of the Consent Decree
that broke-up The Bell System. (Part 64)
(No, I am not a lawyer. I am a Network Technician. But I LIVED through this
monumental event and absorbed more worthless trivia than I would have ever
This is common in "new construction". Unfortunately, many wiremen are
stubbing-out their phone and coax cable ABOVE the rim joist and it makes NO
appearance, whatsoever, in the UNfinished basement.
Many, perhaps even most, older installations "hub" at the "box" where the
service enters the house. This is proper.
Having looked at that box on the outside of my house it's a little
intimidating thinking that you can just unscrew those nuts and remove your
wires. Those are BIG bolts holding those phone wires on and the rather
large cable connected to them from the power pole doesn't help any.
That is why the FCC mandated a SNID on every new service and, on existing
services, retrofitted with a SNID if one is not present.
Fear not, however. Without an official SNID, you can easily connect together
the ends of multiple station wires using a common wire nut and, with a single
"jumper", connect to the protector block - the "BIG bolts".
Properly terminating multiple wires on a single, nut-torqued, threaded binding
post, even with spacer washers, is an acquired skill. After 34-years, I
almost have it.
I guess I was under the wrong assumption, and assumption it was, that
this box belonged to the phone company and not the home owner ; so the
home owner shouldnt mess with it. In reading all these posts, I would
guess I made a big boo-boo in saying that he shouldnt mess with it.
I apologize for any confusion to the postee :-)
DIY attachments to this device are legal.
If innocent, well-intended DIY connections to one's own telco protector
(block) were EVER truly "illegal", I know of no prosecutions.
In "the good old days", if someone tampered with their phone service,
resulting in a repair call, the trouble was identified and corrected or
removed. The subscriber was given a warning about improper connections. If a
subsequent improper connection resulted in a dispatch, management got
involved. It was - and is - a non-issue.
Telephone is the "Rodney Dangerfield" of utilities:
It gets NO respect at all.
I assuming that the box you refering to is the NIU (network interface
unit). Yes, you can
attach the wire without attaching any terminals. That is what the box
was designed for
(I used to work in the group that designed them).
I am assuming that the box you refering to is the NIU (network
unit). Yes, you can attach the wire without attaching any terminals.
That is what the box
was designed for (I used to work in the group that designed them).
On 30 Mar 2007 12:19:58 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
They (HIU) sure have come along way in 50 years. My Grandfather would
pull these ceramic/copper fuses if my siblings talked on the phone to
long. Even take one with him when he went to town. My brother simply
put a table fork in ... for the fuse - while he was gone.
"The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!"
This will work fine.
As far as caveats go I can only think of a couple of things. First is to
not bugger up the wire when stripping and to make electrically sound
connections. The second thing is to realize that the box is there to
separate your wiring from the phone companies expensive equipment. It has
protection to prevent something on your end from buggering up the Telco
equipment so it is important that you only hook wires to your side of the
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.
Sure you can.
The connection must be secure. That's the only warning.
Be prepared to switch the red and green wire to your phone if you
notice a problem. In the old days, ringer and tip were criticical,
but on newer phones made in china, you never know which will work
Yes Bob, you can do it. The only caveat is if there is an alarm
system installed you should make sure the new phone wire goes to the
'house side' - usually recognizable by a hanging splice inside the
NID. If there is an alarm dialer wire, it should be the ONLY one
connected to the NID - <blue/blue-white> and on that same cable the
<orange/orange-white pair> will be the alarm panel's output feeding
the house phones.
Ohh-- and if DSL service is in use, and you are filtering from the
NID- that will need to be addressed as well.
Any good, Cat-rated, four-pair, Type CM cable. Don't buy/use flat garbage
wire (i.e. Menards).
It takes just a PAIR of copper wires to run a phone device. They are usually
red/green or white/blue (blue+whitestripe + white+bluestripe & slightly
If you have a Standard Network Interface Device (SNI/NID) on your house, it
will be so marked. The instructions for wiring SHOULD be inside the cover
after you open it where it is marked "Customer Access". If you are even just
modestly handy, simple observation should do the rest.
If you do NOT have a SNID, the wires will likely be terminated as a group on
two, common binding posts. There is one binding post for each "side" of the
Polarity is a virtual non-issue now.
If there are ~4 or more conductors attached to a binding post or the "slots"
in the SNID are full, you can "tap" or "three-way" an existing, live pair with
your new pair. This is often done to avoid disturbing the "rats nest" of
wires at the protector. Good luck!
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