This is one job I'd leave to a professional. Without experience and a
crew, how good do you expect your first job to be? And this is
something that is time critical, you get one shot, and once you start
you can't take a few days to fools around with it
We just completed a a 20' X 30' patio with stamped concrete done in
brown. The idiots ran out of brown release agent and finished 1/3 of it
in gray. After I screamed and hollered they came back and recolored the
whole thing in brown and sealed it at no cost to me. It actually looks
pretty good now. We like it now quite a lot.
If you are talking about performing the work yourself, I think you
The learning curve and the cost of the stamps would be prohibitive
for one pour.
There is a good source of information that can answer many of your
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
We had a concrete stamping done in our sunroom - my advice, is do a
two tone grey color. All concrete cracks at some point. With the
grey, the cracks blend in and look like part of the design. In our
case, we got one crack a year or two after installation down the
middle of the room. For the most part, it follows the simulated
grout/mortar lines and you can't see it at all. In a couple spots, it
crosses the middle of a simulated block - ...you really can't tell
unless it's pointed out to you. With a light colored tint (brown,
tan, etc) I think the crack would really stick out and be noticeable.
Certainly have it sealed and don't take shortcuts on the pad itself
(rebar, mesh, good footer below frost line, etc).
In the end - I love the stamped concrete - maintenance free, looks
great, and tough as concrete (haha).
The stove is 220 volts. Can I run #12 wire from the #10 wire in the box to
a separate box for the microwave? I thought I had seen this done
elsewhere, but then wondered what would trip the 30A breaker if there was
a problem with the microwave.
No you can not. Ideally, a built-in microwave should be on it's own 20a
circuit. You can share that 20a circuit with one of your 2 20a countertop
appliance circuits, but using the microwave along with a toaster and coffee pot
would overload the circuit.
Fixed appliances need their own circuit. Dishwasher, disposal, microwave,
The counter top recpts are for general use. If you decide to ignore the NEC
just remember if you have the microwave on and plug something into the
outlet with a good load the breaker might trip.
I checked this morning and the general outlet I'm going to use is on the
same circuit with the dining room outlets, not the rest of the kitchen
outlets. I'm relative sure (it's 20A) that she won't have anything else
plugged in that will be enough to trip the breaker if the uwave is on.
It turns out that the reason she thought it was possible was that someone
else did it in a unit down the hall.
charles, thanks for the help
firstname.lastname@example.org (Charles Bishop) wrote in message
*Microwave - 110 - 120 volt, 60 hertz, properly grounded circuit
protected by a 15/20 amp circuit breaker or fuse. #14 gauge house wire
minimum for 15 amp protection, #12 gauge is a must for 20 amp
protection. A separate (--dedicated--) circuit serving this appliance
The microwave should not be wired in the with the range. The microwave
-may- be plugged into the kettle plug on the range.
Appliance Repair Aid
Do these thing go bad over time? I have one in mu masterbath room that
is constantly tripping. It doens't trip when its in use it trips
sometime during the night or during the day when no one is around?
I had one in my bathroom that would trip every now and then for no apparent
reason and then be very difficult to reset. When I went to replace it, I found
it had been wired incorrectly to start with. Works great now...
Go ahead and replace it.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.