The shower in my master bathroom is no longer staying hot. It's
hot enough for me if the knob is all the way over to the hot side,
but not hot enough for my wife. I used to set the handle to more
or less the center, so something has changed. The downstairs
shower and all the rest of the faucets are fine so I don't think
it's the boiler (domestic coil).
I've replaced the cartridge in the Moen mixing/diverter valve (the
Moen site said either a 1220 or 1225 - I used a 1225) but the
problem remains. I've been told that a hot-cold transfer is
possible at any faucet so I've tried shutting off the supply to
them; nope. I would have thought this would affect all faucets
anyway. Any ideas?
Does sound like a Hot\\Cold transfer. The 1220/1225 is not
a scald-guard type so it's not that kind of problem.
It's remotely possible that the cartridge is not sealing
properly in the bore, but I doubt it.
Have you overlooked some faucet/device which could be
backfeeding Cold to Hot? A single handle bath faucet
nearby? Another shower/tub faucet? Even a washing machine
I would try seeing what hot water flow rate you get at the shower.
Put a small bucket under the shower and run only the hot water for a
timed minute .
That will show you if there is some constriction problem.
Do the same for the cold water to compare.
If you get very hot water from another faucet its not a heater problem.
I'll do that, though there doesn't seem to be a problem with the
sink in that bath (I'll try that too just to make sure).
It can't be a constriction after the mixing valve (would be the
same as a "saver" shower head) or before the split to the sink
(assuming the hot isn't a problem there). There is only about a
two foot long piece of 1/2" copper inbetween (the connection is
directly under the head-end of the tub).
You don't even want to know! This house was built by a complete
moron. I just took the red carpeting out of the bath in question
and put down tile.
Actually, I'm getting ready to sell the house so I've got it *all*
torn up fixing things that I should have years ago. It seemed that
happened with my last house too (got everything all nice and pretty
for the next owners).
Yep. Not much of that stuff in my immediate future but once I sell
the joint...). ;-) Got the outside stained and now the only thing
I need to do outside is some repairs to the deck before the snow is
3' deep over it. Let see... Paint, carpet, cabinet repairs. Hmm,
where is that honey-do list...
3.8GPM to the spigot (the shower head is more work)
Hot enough for SWMBO. When the ground gets cold the bath in
question may not even be enough for me.
The bath in question is a long way from the boiler (30-40') of
3/4" copper. I insulated the heat and hot water pipes, where I
could get at them but it was fine before. I would suspect the
distance but that hasn't changed either.
Unless I've misread, you say the faucet worked, but now performance has
degraded. That would seem to indicate that recently something has been
misadjusted, clogged, or broken.
I think you said you recently put in ball valves. My suggestion would
be that you go through the entire system and insure the valves are in
the proper position, whether it be open or closed. If there is another
faucet on this supply line, for example, having a valve that should be
closed open can allow bleeding of cold into the downstream hot, giving
downstream tepid water. I suggest doing this first, as it is simplest.
If that doesn't work, I would close the ball valves leading the the tub
(both hot and cold), remove the faucet valve assembly, then turn on the
hot using the ball valve. That can be messy, so be prepared. If you
get a full stream of hot, then you know the problem is somewhere in the
faucet; check for a blocked filter or an error in your installation of
the replacement. Good luck.
Yes, something's changed. But what? There isn't much in line that
wouldn't also affect the other bathroom.
Yes, I mentioned this. I shut everything else off and no joy.
This line is the only one I haven't yet added ball valves to.
That's not easy to do since I'd have to add the ball valves to this
line. I have them, but haven't installed them yet. This is a good
idea though. If everything is shut off except that hot then there
is no chance of intermixing and then the flow rate would tell me
something, even without pulling the cartridge.
Perhaps a call to Moen might be in order...
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