Never tile over drywall. It's not durable and not
water resistant. Use concrete board or backer
panels. And use thinset mortar rather than tile
mastic. That will give you a mortar wall that
should hold up, and except for the hassle of cutting
concrete board it's not any more work.
|I would like to put the drywall and tiles into cold room ,
| will thy drywall/tiles crack because of the low temperature
| or condensed water happens ?
On Wednesday, 26 November 2014 10:05:58 UTC-5, Mayayana wrote:
Thanks for the reply,
my original question is not clear
I am not putting the tile over the drywall
currently, the cold room only has concrete
I want to put the drywall on the wall
and tile on floor,
I wonder does it has any problem
the cold room does not has any insulation
| currently, the cold room only has concrete
| I want to put the drywall on the wall
| and tile on floor,
| I wonder does it has any problem
| the cold room does not has any insulation
If you'll never heat it that should be OK. But
I don't see why you'd want to put up stud walls
in a room that will never be finished as a living
space. If it might end up being heated, assuming
there's no water leaking through the concrete, you
can put fiberglass insulation in the stud wall, then
staple plastic over it all before the drywall goes up.
It's hard to know the best approach without
knowing the room. If it's damp I'd avoid any of
what you're considering.
On Wednesday, 26 November 2014 14:20:39 UTC-5, Mayayana wrote:
we want to keep the cold room clean and cold
the room is still using for storage (fruit / can / etc .. )
The heat will not get into cold room
we already paint the floor, however it seems dusty awhile
maybe that is coming concrete dust from the wall.
should we paint the wall , will that help to keep dust away ?
| we want to keep the cold room clean and cold
| the room is still using for storage (fruit / can / etc .. )
| The heat will not get into cold room
| we already paint the floor, however it seems dusty awhile
| maybe that is coming concrete dust from the wall.
| should we paint the wall , will that help to keep dust away ?
That sounds good to me. There used to be
a product called Emulsa-Bond. I don't know if
it's still around. EB is an additive for latex paint
that adds an oil to make it soak in better. I've
used latex paint with EB and water to paint
things like dusty cellar floors that are too rough
fully clean. Adding water makes it like a whitewash,
but it still seals like paint. Something like that
should seal the surface without peeling, in case
the walls/floor get damp.
If you want to you could then paint glossy
latex over that, but if the walls get damp it's
better not to use anything with a film that could
Tiling the floor would be a lot of work and you'd
need to probably pour a sandmix bed. The painted
concrete wouldn't be a good surface for tile
mastic or thinset mortar to stick to.
| > Tiling the floor would be a lot of work and you'd
| > need to probably pour a sandmix bed. The painted
| > concrete wouldn't be a good surface for tile
| > mastic or thinset mortar to stick to.
| What if they are vinyl tiles? With the self stick back?
Over painted concrete? I doubt they'd even stick.
For that I'd want to put down plywood first. But the
OP seems to be saying it's sometimes damp. For that
I would only consider ceramic/mortar if it *had*
to be tiled. If it's the way I'm imaging it I might be
inclined to just set down a vinyl runner mat, without
Maybe. He can put down three or four and see how they do.
(My friend put self-stick where the kitchen was on the original wood
floor of a loft in Soho that had been used for decades by a printing
company. That only stuck for a few months, but the paint is new and
can be washed clean before putting the tile down.
OP you might also consider outdoor carpeting, like is used for
balconies. I don't know what happens if you leave heavy things on it
for months, but if you leave the things forever, it won't matter what
happens to the nap underneath.
| >What if they are vinyl tiles? With the self stick back?
| Maybe. He can put down three or four and see how they do.
Self-stick adhesive is very thin. It needs to be stuck down
to a clean, smooth surface. On most, perhaps all, concrete
it would only be sticking to the "peaks". If I *had to* do it
for some reason I'd use tile mastic with vinyl composite tiles.
(Think hospital floors.) But even then it would be a bad idea
to glue it over paint.
Another issue with self-stick is variability of quality: The
designs are nearly all cheap and kitschy, the plastic often
discolors and/or peels. A few years ago I did a job with
Armstrong tile from HD. I think it was "Solarium". Cheaper
than something like solid vinyl tile, but not the cheapest
level of self-stick. The mastic was sort of gooey, but I didn't
give it much thought. I figured it must be a reformulation.
It turned out the mastic was faulty. It remained gooey and
the tiles didn't stick. I was lucky in that the job was in a
rental and the building owner is a very old customer. Everyone
was happy with just putting carpet over the mess. But it
could have been a big loss for me if the customer had
demanded a refund or a suitable tile floor. If I were lucky,
Armstrong might have refunded the tile cost, but I would
have still been out for the labor and the underlayment.
If you are attaching drywall to studs, I would probably want to put in
fiberglass insulation in the stud bays first anyway, even if you think the
room will never be heated. That would still help keep the cold room cold
and separate it from the temperatures of whatever is on the other side of
the walls. Plus, if you or anyone else ever did want to change the use of
the room, the insulation would already be in place behind the drywall.
And, yes, paint the drywall and the floor to help keep things clean,
protected, and more dust free.
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