On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 06:23:16 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:
Thanks for adding me to honorary plumbers-crack membership!
It's a temporary setup (until I look more closely at what's really
disabling the back-pressure valve) - which allows me to analyze the valve
in my own sweet time without being super frustrated by the leaks.
Speaking of leaks, I had expected a leak when I first turned it on, but it
was water tight from the start.
The galvanized pipes are a bit crudded up inside though ...
Again, I must thank you kind folks because you give me advice in three
1. You tell me exactly *where* to start (e.g., at the yellow connections).
2. You give me ideas for solutions (e.g., the threaded pipe nipple).
3. That gives me the courage to start the job (I analyze more than most
because I'm actually more timid than most of you when initially tackling a
Yup. I cleaned the two ball valves out and tried to lubricate them with
pool grease, but the grease didn't really do much to make the downstream
valve easier to turn (or, maybe shoving grease on the inside ball wasn't
the right way to lubricate them?).
I did learn a bit, e.g., I put the teflon pipe dope on the threads but I
didn't bother with the black 10-mil tape, after asking at the hardware
store what it's for.
I also made some unexpected mistakes.
For example, I never could get the downstream pipe joint to open because
the entire assembly kept turning underground instead!
On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 15:25:08 -0500, Vic Smith wrote:
< embarrassed > I didn't think of that.
Yes. It probably would have allowed me to crack the nut.
In fact, in further hindsight, I could have cracked one pipe-union nut
first, and then, before disconnecting it, cracked the other.
Then I could have done it with the one pipe wrench that I used.
(I have more pipe wrenches - I just didn't lug them up the hill.)
On Sun, 14 Aug 2016 00:57:56 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
What, are you saying there's a way out of using 2 wrenches?
Then you're not paying attention.
Always use 2 pipe wrenches, even on unions.
Believe it or not, an over-tightened or frozen union nut can resist
turning enough to where fittings on either side both tighten and
loosen. And not necessarily the first fitting from the union.
It's happened to me more than once, though it didn't matter because I
was junking the old pipe.
This advice doesn't matter much, since hardly any DIYer encounters
steel pipe anymore.
On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 22:35:06 -0500, Vic Smith wrote:
Um... that's what I "was" saying.
Until I read the rest of the post below.
I had not realized you would have used two pipe wrenches even if there were
only a single union. Now I understand. I had not understood that before.
I see. It does make sense.
Thank you for having the patience to clarify.
That makes sense.
Yeah. Disassembly to take stuff apart that will never go back together is
always easier than any other job!
I think most of my house is copper, but the outside seems to be galvanized,
and my sister's house, which I also maintain, is all galvanized from the
sixties. Those pipes have nodules of stuff inside whenever I replace them.
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