Hi folks,
Some questions about the best way to deal with a leaky chimney / roof area. I'm hoping there are some knowledgeable masons / roofers / home-owners out there with good ideas...
Background:
I have an 11-year old 2-story colonial with a chimney at one end of the house, slightly off-center. For the past 8 years, there have been on-again, off-again problems with water in the attic where the edge of the roof meets the chimney. Not dripping water, but wet plywood causing visible stains, especially after a long rain. The attic is well-ventilated, so it's not interior moisture.
I've had various roofers and masons try various fixes over the years:
1 - Had the counterflashing re-done (cut out the old with a diamond saw, put in new counterflashing). It's not interleaved with the shingles, which I think may be a problem.2 - Had the chimney sealed about 4 years ago with a siloxane compound in spring.
3 - Had caulking applied between the chimney and the siding of the house.4 - Had a metal chimney cap put on above the flues.
5 - Had the shingles and step flashing around the chimney re-done, 3 times (!). The first 2 times, the folks turned out to be not so great. They used a ton of silicone, even under the shingles, and basically made a mess of things. The 3rd roofer, recently, was pretty good; seemed a very experienced, competent fellow. He ripped up the shingles; put a new ice-and-water barrier in that area and around the chimney (making sure to overlap it with the bottom course of shingles); and put in new step flashing. This helped -- but even after a moderate rain, there was still a 1" wet spot in the attic, a little above where the bottom corner of the chimney meets the house.And here are the recent recommendations I've had from various masons / roofers / chimney sweeps:
1 - Re-do the flashing (again). 2 - Re-seal the chimney (again) (with ChimneySaver, or a Umaco compound). 3 - Put a thicker concrete crown on top of the chimney, and extend the flues a couple inches above the crown (right now, they're flush with the top of what looks like a fairly thin mortar crown). 4 - Tear down and re-build the chimney above the roof-line; do selective re-pointing; and then do #1-3 above. (This option would cost about $3200 - $4200.)So (finally), here are my questions:
1 - In general... which of the above sounds like a reasonable approach? Any other thoughts?2 - Does the price on option #4 sound right? It seems a lot of money... but none of the other fixes have worked.
3 - On the masonry web sites I've read, the usual recommendation is to extend a concrete crown a couple inches past the edge of the brick; to put an expansion joint around the flues; and ideally to flash the flues. All the masons I've talked with, even the experienced, competent-seeming ones, dismiss these ideas. How important is it to do this?4 - Near the top of the chimney, it's corbeled out and back again in a "beehive" (i.e., 3 successive courses of brick out, then 3 back, then up to the crown). One mason would prefer to re-build it without corbeling into a beehive. Does it matter, from a water absorption perspective?
5 - How important is it that the flues don't extend past the crown right now?At least in this area, it seems that there aren't that many masons who (a) are experienced and competent, and (b) return phone calls and show up. I've found one or two (I think), but before spending even more $$$ on this issue, I'd like to get the wisdom of folks out there (even after having read a lot of the past threads on chimneys & masonry).
Thanks!
Peter