On Thursday, February 27, 2014 3:16:12 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 10 or more year old freezer - it has a power out alarm. I would assume all new freezers have one.
As for cold temps hampering the operation. Being a skeptic I would really like dto see the reasoning behind that. Mine sits on an unheated, enclosed porch in a climate that commonly sees temps below zero in winter - no trouble at all with the freezer.
> nobody checks it for a couple of weeks like happened to my neighbor,
>you put it. In this case one breaker tripped, and the garage lost
> power but the rest of the house did not.
Ours, and I think most, have a loud buzzer that goes off if the
temperature goes over a certain point. I need to check and see if that
is battery powered or powered from the AC. If powered from the AC it
obviously would not do a lot of good.
I wonder if they sell any mechanical memory devices. Like the turkey pop
You can buy cheap battery operated temperature monitors. You could just
monitor maximum temp, but an alarm device might cost more.
Chests are more efficient than uprights. When you open the lid the cold
stays inside. When you open an upright a lot of cold air falls out.
I don't know the numbers, maybe they're insignificant, maybe not. I guess
it would depend on how often and for how long the upright was opened.
I agree with the advice to contact the manufacturer and find out what
temperature range they specify for the freezer. While colder
temperatures will increase the efficiency of the condenser in getting
rid of the heat removed from the food, the oil in the compressor is
going to get more viscous with colder temperatures and may not lubricate
the moving parts in the compressor sufficiently.
Chest freezers are inherently more efficient than upright freezers
because cold air is denser than warm air. So, when you open a chest
freezer, the cold air remains inside as Derby Dad says.
Never ever never buy a used chest freezer if it's been turned off.
That's because chest freezers are built differently than refrigerators.
In a chest type freezer the evaporator coils line the inside of the
freezer side walls and the condenser coils line the outsides of the
freezer side walls. That's why the walls of a chest freezer will feel
warm, just like the condenser coils on the back of a fridge when it's
running. Because chest freezers don't have a automatic defrost like
fridges, over the course of several years, frost will accumulate on the
evaporator coils of the freezer. This space is sealed off and so you
don't get the kind of frost accumulation that you get on a manual
defrost fridge, but it will accumulate with time.
The problem is is that space is sealed off. So, if you turn off or
unplug the freezer, that frost melts and forms a puddle at the bottom of
the freezer. That water won't do any harm at all to the aluminum
evaporator coils on the inside of the freezer walls, but in time it will
cause corrosion of the STEEL condensor coils on the outside of the
freezer walls. That corrosion will make the steel rough, and that
results in what engineers call "stress raisers". If you have a notch in
a steel tube, and you continuously pressurize and depressurize that
tube, a crack will propogate from that notch because the stress on the
steel is highest at the notch because the wall thickness of the tubing
is smallest at the notch.
So, if you plan to sell an old freezer, put your ad in the paper, but
leave the freezer plugged in and running until it's sold. Otherwise,
knowledgable buyers won't want to buy it for fear it's not going to last
I understand upright uses little more power than chest type but wife
hated chest freezer we had first, bending down and digging out stuff
she needed. After we bought upright we use it more. She is happy.
My thoughts, and many others, self defrosting units will cause freezer burn
more than manual defrost. Temperature fluctuations help cause freezer burn.
I don't have any full size units right now. I've data logged typical upper
freezer refrigerators. During defrost air temperature can go well into the
20s. If it's opened during that period, even worse. I was just reading
searches, because I never really worried about it much.
I bought my parents a large sears chest, around 1970. It sat in the garage
for 35 years, always running. I ended up giving it away still working. It
got close to 32 degrees at times in the garage. It was not used that well,
mostly empty. Great for large items, and making ice bricks.
I found a problem recently. A self defrosting unit, against a cold wall
will condense water vapor, causing mold.
Our garage is attached and not heated or cooled. Gets pretty hot in
summer, and that was my main concern. We can keep the door open during
hottest part of the day, but I hoped someone had real data. Our
basement gets TOO cool in summer with AC running, just from the heat
loss from ducts....not finished and no vents in basement. Could correct
it if hubby goes for it.
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